Monthly Archives: March 2017

2010 Château Poujeaux – Moulis

24 Friday Mar 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Wines

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2010Poujeaux

Wine making in Moulis, the Bordeaux commune from which Château Poujeaux originates, dates to the Romans. Evidence of several Roman vineyards have been found in Moulis, with genetic material uncovered of the Biturica grape, which was believed to be the first grape cultivated by the Romans in Bordeaux. Like many grapes found in France in ancient Roman vineyards, the trail leads back to Spain. In fact, it is believed that the Romans brought the Balisca grape from Spain to Southwest France and began cultivation of vines in Bordeaux. The natural harbor and the well-drained soil was a primary factor in the Romans choosing Bordeaux as a major wine center. Over time, it is believed that the Biturica grape evolved into Cabernet Sauvignon, although it is more likely that the evolution produced Carménère instead. Whichever is the case, we can be thankful that the Romans did what they did, because the modern wines from Moulis are wonderful.

Another interesting fact – the name Moulis derives from the word Moulin, or Mill. The commune owes its name to the historic use of the region, after the Romans departed, which was the milling of grain. Once the Dutch entered the picture and made substantial investments to dramatically increase wine production for export by the Dutch East India Company, the grain milling days of Moulis ended.

Château Poujeaux is arguably one of the best properties in Moulis, vying for attention with another well-known Moulis property, Chasse-Spleen. Both are favorites of mine and our cellar has vintages of both wines going back to 1970. In 2003, the Cru Bourgeois reclassification bumped Poujeaux, along with eight other wines into the higher-level category of Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels, worthy recognition for sure. The property was owned for many generations by the Theil family until early 2008. At that point, ownership changed to Philippe Cuvelier, who is also owner of the Saint-Émilion property, Clos Fourtet.

The property itself consists of approximately 126 acres under vine, with the typical blend of grapes to be 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Unlike neighboring communes Margaux and Graves, the soils of Moulis have smaller concentrations of gravel mixed with clay and limestone. While not ideal, the soil type is beneficial for Merlot, which likely is a factor in the blend.

Unlike the West Coast of the United States, specifically, California, vintage quality and character can vary widely from year-to-year. Case in point, comparing and contrasting 2009 with 2010 offers a very good example. With the 2009 vintage, my experience with Bordeaux is a story about lush, jammy wines that have well-integrated tannins. Approachable and quaffable from their youth with solid potential to improve. With the 2010 vintage, my experience is more a story of intense structure with deeper, darker fruits that are more tightly wound. The wines are drinking okay, but it is clear that 2010 is more of a “classic” Bordeaux vintage, requiring some bottle age to produce wines of exquisite beauty.

This is clearly evident in Poujeaux, where the 2010 is absolutely classic Right Bank Bordeaux. A dense, dark fruit palate is supported by great tannic structure and while the wine is nice to drink now, I can see that the wine has tremendous potential. Compare the 2009 and you find a wine that is far less structured, with a rounder, simpler palate. The potential is harder to see in the 2009, although I expect the wine to age nicely.

Interestingly, the 2010 is priced at about $10 less than the current retail price of the 2009, which is often the case when a less-opulent, less-touted vintage arrives – as it is with 2010 versus 2009. Based on my notes and experience, I would buy and lay down the 2010 now before the price creeps and if you haven’t already purchased the 2009, pass.

The Oregon Club – Ashland, MA

23 Thursday Mar 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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OregonLogo

If I had never been told by a friend about the Oregon Club (http://theoregonclub.com/Home_Page.html), I might never have had the pleasure of dining there.

Nestled on a country road in Ashland, the Oregon Club is a quaint destination that should not be overlooked. According to their website:

The Oregon Club was born as “The Briasco Inn” in 1922, founded by Giuseppe Briasco. At first glance, the Briasco Inn was a popular local rooming house that served just spaghetti and steaks to the neighborhood, but the Inn also functioned as a speakeasy. When prohibition ended in 1933, the Briascos renamed their restaurant The Oregon Club and made it members-only to continue offering their guests the privacy they enjoyed. Giuseppe turned over the business to his son John and wife Rena in the 50’s.  Word continued to spread about the odd little farmhouse with such great food, and eventually the once private club was opened to the public.  John and Rena retired in 1994 and handed over their much-loved restaurant to a new generation. Chef Chris Scanlon and Judy MacLeod, owners of the Oregon Club since 2009, met at the Oregon Club many years ago.  Both were enamored by the history and the potential in this funky little spot. When the opportunity came to take over, they jumped at the chance and have not looked back since.

We have visited twice now and each visit has been spectacular. Paying homage to the Club’s speakeasy past, we of course started with a brace of classic cocktails, each well-prepared.

OregonNegroni

The Negroni was perfectly balanced and refreshing, as was the Martini.

OregonCaesar

The appetizer list is plentiful, but we stuck with a pair of Caesar Salads. Both were crisp and fresh with a tangy dressing and for those who like “hairy fish,” the anchovies were plentiful.

OregonFlankOregonSirloin

Because the restaurant is known for steaks, we stuck with the special – Grilled Marinated Flank Steak, served with mashed potatoes and sautéed green beans, and the 12-oz. New York Sirloin. The steaks were cooked perfectly to order and were tender and flavorful. On prior visits, we did have the Oregon “Club Steak,” which is an 8-oz. sirloin, smothered with wonderful sherry-caramelized onions. We can also vouch for the Pan-seared Duck Breast when it is available, as well as the Mushroom Pasta, which is Campanelle pasta tossed with wild mushrooms, crispy pancetta, Cippolini onion and sun-dried tomatoes all finished with white wine, olive oil, herbs and Romano cheese.

OregonBruleeOregonMousseOregonGrappaEspresso

Desserts are all house made and are excellent – we had the Mousse and the Crème Brûlée, as well as a nice snifter of Eau de Vie, in this case, Grappa.

OregonCDP

In fairness to some of the other restaurants I have reviewed, I need to take the Oregon Club to task for their wine list… The list is brief, but does contain some very nice selections that are both appropriate for the cuisine and reasonably priced. As I have noted in the past, I am a stickler for accuracy on a wine list, especially for a modest list that is managed as an insert on a clipboard-style drinks list. For starters, not all the wines are up-to-date. Case in point, we ordered a favorite, the 2012 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret which we had on a prior visit and was still listed. The server brought a CDP, but it was the 2014 Domaine de Châteaumar. When I asked why the change, the server appeared confused, until I showed that what was listed was in fact not what was brought. A return to the kitchen with questions, elicited the answer – the listed wine is no longer available, the one brought to table is the CDP on offer. We were told we could taste it and if we found it unsatisfactory we could return it, no charge. We plowed forward and the wine was fine. While this episode did not diminish our enjoyment and all worked out in the end, I do raise it as an issue given my focus on beverage service and especially given that the list is easily managed.

Table service was excellent. Our server was cheerful, helpful, professional and attentive. She was a joy and took very good care of us. Overall, our experiences have been exceptional and we give the Oregon Club our highest recommendation!

 

Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial

21 Tuesday Mar 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Wines

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VincentDV

Burgundy can be a cruel mistress. The region and relevant wine laws are highly complicated. The wines can be hard to appreciate and for the wine consumer on a budget, the often-stratospheric prices can be daunting. And yet, despite such cruelty, we are inextricably drawn to the mysterious wines of Burgundy. Which is why, when a wine arrives that represents a tremendous value, ears prick up with interest.

Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial is a relatively young estate (1994) that has a long family history of wine making. Vincent Dureuil the proprietor is regarded as one of the finest artisans of traditional Burgundy, producing wines of exceptional focus and character. According to their website, the family has been making wine in Burgundy since the 13th Century. The estate owns about 42 acres principally in the Côtes Chalonnaise, with small amounts of vineyard land in Côtes de Beaune and Côtes de Nuit. They produce wine in about twenty appellations, again primarily in Rully or straight Bourgogne. However, they do have a 1er cru offering in Puligny-Montrachet, as well as a 1er cru offering in Nuit St George. Some of their vineyards are sporting vines as old as 70 years, while others are quite contemporary. Since 2001 the estate has been actively moving towards organic certification, eliminating herbicides and ensuring that the work of vineyard is strenuously conducted on the lunar calendar.

I recently had the pleasure of encountering some of their white and red wines from properties in Rully. I tried their Rully Blanc, Rully Blanc 1er Cru Raclot, Rully Rouge 1er Cru Le Fosse and Rully Rouge 1er Cru Vauvry and all of them were wonderful.

The Rully Blanc is 100% Chardonnay harvested from four estate-owned properties at village-level. Soils are primarily limestone and the vines average 40 years in age. All this translates to classic, white Burgundy with stone fruit, citrus zest and great minerality. Best news? Average retail is about $24-pre-discount.

The Rully Blanc 1er Cru Raclot is another 100% Chardonnay wine made with grapes from a single, estate-owned property, Raclot. The plot is in the west part of Rully and is at the highest elevation of any of their properties. As a result, the wines are more refined with a lightly-floral nose and beguiling texture. One does not think Rully when one tastes the Raclot, instead one is drawn to something further north, like Puligny. More good news… All this wine for an average retail cost of about $35-pre-discount.

The Rully Rouge 1er Cru Le Fosse is 100% Pinot Noir harvested from a relatively high-altitude vineyard, with vines averaging 70 years of age. The wine has a spicy character, with more mineral-driven notes and firm acidity. Traditional in spirit, but with very modern fruit elements. Average retail is $46-pre-discount.

VincentDV-Vauvry

The Rully Rouge 1er Cru Vauvry is also 100% Pinot Noir, but from a warmer vineyard with vines averaging 40 years in age. As a result, the wine is lusher with darker fruits and a velvety texture. Like the Le Fosse, the wine is clearly Burgundy, but with a sense of modernity. Average retail is $32-pre-discount.

Overall, the price-to-quality ratio is high on these wines, especially given that some of them are 1er Cru Rully. Aging potential is solid, given their structure, so there is no rush to drink any of these wines.

Even the cruelest mistress can show a bit of love now and then…

The Breakfast Nook – Bellingham MA

12 Sunday Mar 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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BreakfastNookLogo

No, I have not supplanted my wine & spirits focus for food… But I thought it would be a nice diversion for my local readers to find a few restaurant reviews amongst the wine and cocktails… When we first arrived in Wrentham we tried this breakfast joint. It was called something different then (17 years ago) and frankly, it wasn’t very good. Recently, we were in the area and decidedly hungry so we figured we would give the rebooted version another try. The Breakfast Nook https://www.facebook.com/The-Breakfast-Nook-108131589229062/ turned out to be quite good.

BreakfastNookSOS

BreakfastNookEggs

I was pleasantly surprised to find SOS on the menu, either over toast or biscuits, so I had to try it. The creamed chip beef was excellent, not too salty and with just the correct amount of spiciness. I should have opted for the toast, as the biscuits were a little too moist and were more like dough sinkers. Overall, I was quite happy. Because the picture of the SOS on the menu looked skimpy, I also asked for a pair of fried eggs and home fries – both excellent, but both unnecessary.

BreakfastNookFrenchToast

BreakfastNookMapleSausage

The French Toast was good, although they would have benefited from more vanilla in the batter and little more cinnamon on the side. The Maple-cured Sausage was excellent with a deep, rich flavor.

Coffee, like cocktails, becomes a benchmark upon which I measure “diners” and The Breakfast Nook coffee was superb. Rich, full-flavored with nutty hints and no bitterness.

Although off the beaten path for us, we will be making return visits when my hankering for SOS arises, which is probably going to be too often, in spite of my need to curb my waistline!

 

Bella Donna Daiquiri

10 Friday Mar 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails

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On this day in 1876, Scottish-born Alexander Graham Bell made the first telephone call…”Mr. Watson – Come here – I want to see you.” were the first words spoken on his newly patented invention… and the rest, they say, is history.

In honor of this auspicious occasion, we have the Bella Donna Daiquiri, a curious libation that is sure to start bells ringing…

BellaDonnaDaiquiri

1-1/2 ounces Gosling Black Seal Rum

1-1/2 ounces Amaretto

½ ounce Lemon Juice

½ ounce Cold Water

¼ ounce Simple Syrup

Shake well with crushed ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Rim the glass with grated cinnamon.

*Shamelessly borrowed from the book 365 Days of Cocktails, by Difford’s Guides

Domaine Les Grands Bois

08 Wednesday Mar 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Wines

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GrandBois

Well, history may be repeating itself… And this could be a great thing. Back in 2000, the 1998 vintage was being released from the Rhone, specifically the Southern Rhone and the surrounding regions of Côtes du Languedoc, Côtes du Roussillon and Provence. The wines were magical, especially the Rhone-based wines and they have proven, with almost twenty years of aging to be truly superb. At the time, we bought over a hundred cases of these wines. They were incredible values and have all stood the test of time, especially the Châteauneuf du Pape wines.

Early indicators are that the 2015 vintage, slowly coming to market this year is showing remarkably similar characteristics. The downside is that many of the properties that were outrageous values in 2000 have become quite pricey. This is not the case for one such estate, Domaine Les Grands Bois. In 2000, we scooped up several cases of their Cuvée Gabrielle, which was then retailing for $11.99 pre-discount. Recent sampling shows a wine that has become more complex and more refined, but is still strong and worthy of enjoyment.

Recently I was offered the 2015 Cuvée Philippine and it is stunning. The wine is showing all the characteristics of the 1998, perhaps with just a hint more blackberry jam. At $17.99 pre-discount the wine is a tremendous bargain. Yes, the price represents a 33% increase in price, but over 19 years that increase translates to less than 1.7% annually, which is far below the average cost of living increase…

Domaine Les Grands Bois is a small (approximately 110 acres) property with vineyards in several prized appellations. The winery itself was started in 1920 by Albert Farjon in Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes, just outside of the city of Orange. Albert was a farmer at heart and spent most of his time cultivating the vineyards, understanding the importance and distinction of an estate-owned property. Today, the property is owned and operated by Albert’s niece, Mireille and her husband Marc, together with their three daughters, Philippine, Gabrielle and Eloïse.

The vineyards of Domaine Les Grands Bois are spread over seven communes, located in Sainte Cécile les Vignes, Lagarde-Paréol, Suze la Rousse, Tulette, Cairanne, Rasteau, and Travaillan. The properties are at an average altitude of 400 feet with a wide-variety of soil types, consisting of clay-limestone, red stony clays, and large granitic pebbles. The soil types are critical to a slow, even growing cycle, by storing heat during the day, and releasing that energy at night to keep the vines warm. Additionally, gravelly alluvium and soft, moderately moist sandy clays are also found, which promote excellent drainage and prevent rot.

The overall climate is Mediterranean with very little Summer precipitation, and extraordinary sunshine. The Mistral, the often-gale-force wind that blows through the region, is a factor, which is managed through appropriate trellising and pruning.

The winery produces nine bottlings from several important appellations: Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Côtes du Rhône, and Rasteau. Many of the bottlings are cuvées named for the proprietors and their children. The wines are all a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan, although they lean heavily (55%) towards Grenache. Over 75% of the vines date back to 1950, with a small percentage dating back to 1902, making most of the crop Vielle Vigne, or “Old Vines.” Vineyard management is meticulous and harvesting is performed by hand.

The winery itself dates to 1929, but was extensively renovated and updated in 1990, with the introduction of stainless steel fermentation vats, concrete aging tanks and barriques for extended maturation.

The 2015 Domaine Les Grands Bois Cuvée Philippine is a Côtes du Rhone Villages and it is a monster of a wine. With dark, jammy fruit and forceful, but integrated tannins, the wine will age beautifully. If a recent taste of the 1998 is any indication, buying several cases would be the way to go. And at $17.99 pre-discount, the wine is a tremendous value.

 

Hemenway’s In Providence

08 Wednesday Mar 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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HemenwaysLogo

We recently had the pleasure of visiting Hemenway’s in Providence RI, a place billed as “a Providence Seafood Classic.” It was a Saturday evening and the place was hopping. The space is an open design with a very high ceiling. Thus, the noise level is extreme, to the point that trying to hear our server explain the specials was nearly impossible. While the noise was a bit of a detraction, it did not diminish our overall enjoyment of the venue.

HemenwayCocktail

We started with a brace of cocktails… Given the look of the bar, our hopes were high. Therefore, we went the classic route – Negroni, Sidecar and Moscow Mule. The Negroni was well-made, although Carpano Antico was not available. The Sidecar was also well-made, including the proper sugar-rimmed coupe. Balance-wise, I prefer Sidecars a little heavier on the Triple Sec. This one was a trifle bitter. The Moscow Mule was, in a word, just wrong. The cocktail was fine but the signature copper mug was missing. Was it a total deal-breaker? No, but if you are going to serve one of the most identifiable cocktails of the last century, please have the proper “glassware.”

HemenwayScallopsHemenwayCrab

We went with a few of the classic starters. Bacon & Scallion Wrapped Scallops with a soy-ginger dipping sauce were very good. I prefer the bacon a bit less crispy, and the scallions seemed to be AWOL, but the soy-ginger dipping sauce was a nice touch. Crab & Lobster Cakes with roasted chili & citrus aioli, and a fresh herb & radish salad were moist, plump and flavorful. The Caesar Salad with focaccia croutons, and Grana Padano cheese was classic, fresh and enticing.

HemenwayFiletHemenwaySirloin

HemenwaySeafood

For a seafood restaurant, only one of us had a seafood main course. The balance were steaks and they were superb. The 8 Oz. Angus Filet Mignon accompanied by yukon mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, and a red-wine demi glaze was tender and juicy, cooked to a perfect medium. The 12 Oz. Certified Angus New York Strip accompanied by parmesan-truffle steak fries, sautéed spinach, and a sauce bordelaise was exceptional, again cooked to a perfect “Pittsburgh style.” All of the sides were tasty, as were the sauces. The seafood main course was a Chilled Seafood Medley Salad consisting of shrimp, crab, lobster, Jeffery’s greens, feta cheese, shaved red onion, toasted pistachios, orange supreme, and drizzled with a preserved lemon vinaigrette. The Medley had quite possibly the largest jumbo shrimp I had ever seen and was stuffed with oodles of the other listed ingredients. It is clear why Hemenway’s earned their moniker as “Providence Seafood Classic.”

HemenwayDessert

We finished with some artistic sweets. Warm Toffee Cake with a pear and cranberry compote, cinnamon raisin ice cream, oat crisp, and a warm toffee sauce, was delicious and so appropriate given the freezing temperatures outside. The Bourbon Pecan Tart with whipped vanilla sauce, candied pecans, and chocolate whiskey ice cream was also yummy and appropriately comforting.

HemenwayCDR

We also enjoyed a nice bottle of 2015 Château Montmirail Cotes du Rhone which was reasonably priced and paired wonderfully with the steak. My one complaint – accuracy in the wine list… For starters, the wine was listed as a Vacqueyras… Not a big deal, but CDR is not Vacqueyras, despite being adjacent to one another. Also, the listed vintage was 2013, not 2015… again, not a big deal, but I think the 2013 would have been drinking better than the 2015… Completely understand that restaurants can only serve what is available…

Overall, Hemenway’s was a great evening out. The things that mattered most – food and service were impeccable. Ambiance was lacking and beverage service was on par, but not quite perfect. Value-wise, while the meal was not inexpensive, it was certainly worth the price. We’ll be back, probably on a week night to see if that reduces the noise and makes the space a little more intimate.

 

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