One of the first times I experienced the magic of Amarone della Valpolicella Classico was with the wines of Tommasi. I have since grown incredibly fond of Amarone in general, placing the region easily in my top three.

Tommasi is considered a Viticoltori, or “Viticultural Company,” which is akin to a Negociant in France. Bascially, Tommasi owns vineyards and wineries in a number of regions in Italy, four to be exact, stretching from their starting point in Verona and reaching as far east as Tuscany and as far south as Puglia. While diversification is key to a successful wine business, sometimes it can be a distraction which impacts focus and ultimately quality. Not so in the case of Tommasi. The family run organization is large enough to manage the growth and breadth of the business.

Tommasi was founded in 1902 and is situated in Pedemonte (not to be confused with Piedmont), in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico region, on a small piece of land in the Northwest part of Verona, between the plains and the Lessini mountains near Lake Garda.

Giacomo Tommasi started with a tiny vineyard in Valpolicella, and has since grown steadily over the course of many years. Today Tommasi owns vineyards and estates in four different Italian regions:
– Tommasi Viticoltori and Filodora Estate in Veneto;
– Tenuta Caseo in Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy;
– Casisano in Montalcino and Poggio al Tufo in Maremma Tuscany;
– Masseria Surani in Manduria Puglia.

The estate is run by nine, 4th generation family members all aligned with the overall mission of Tommasi – producing the most genuine Italian wines with the highest level of quality available.

In the Veneto, Tommasi offers a very broad portfolio of wines, consisting of whites, reds, roses, sweet and even Grappa. For me, the Valpolicellas are noteworthy, especially the Amarone wines. In our cellar we have numerous vintages going back as far as 1990. Recently, we opened a 1997 Amarone and it was stunning. The wine was vibrant, full-bodied with seemingly infinite complexity. All the familiar markers of well-aged Amarone were present: dried, cooked fruit, figs, raisins with subtle black pepper and allspice notes. Prodigious length provided a stage upon which a never-ending collection of evolving flavor and aroma sensations were on display. Almost exactly 20 years old and this wine is still an explosive powerhouse. The most interesting thing to note… this bottle is Tommasi’s “entry-level” Amarone. The winery boasts a Riserva, which must truly be a remarkable wine.

While the Amarone is the subject of my fascination here, we have their Rafaèl Valpolicella and their Ripasso bottles in our cellar, both tremendous wines in their own right.

Tommasi’s portfolio, as I noted previously is quite extensive.

Their Website is a great repository for all their wines. Of particular note is the List of Award Winning Wines – Truly impressive.

While no longer the value that it once was, Amarone is worth the expense and it appears to be an investment that improves and grows over time.

The 2000 vintage in Bordeaux was considered an exceptional vintage. It was mildly hyped, in comparison to many other vintages like 2005, which tended to keep prices moderate. The 2000 vintage was preceded and followed by vintages that were only considered “good quality” with less aging potential. This fact worked against the moderate prices, as demand for age-worthy wines increased. For the average wine consumer, buying “second labels” afforded some relief.

In the 2000 vintage, we purchased about twenty different producers that we felt represented good value. We employed the classic buying strategy – buy the “second labels” of noted properties. Turns out the strategy paid dividends, because among those producers purchased was the second label of Pauillac powerhouse Château Pichon Baron, known as Les Tourelles de Longueville.

Château Pichon Baron is a “second growth” wine in the famous classification of 1855. As such, the wine has extraordinary pedigree and generally produces wines of considerable structure and age-worthiness. The Château Pichon Baron website clearly states that their flagship wine “is a wine that improves year after year and can age for over 40 years in the cellar.” Age-worthy indeed.

Château Pichon Baron was once part of a much larger estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan. In 1850, the estate was divided into two properties, Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, or as they are commonly known: Château Pichon Baron and Château Pichon Lalande.

Château Pichon Baron has approximately 177 acres under vine, planted with 65% Cabernet-Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The vineyard is arranged into several plots, the best of which is called the “Butte de Pichon Baron.” The average age of the vines on this plot is 30 years. Grapes are harvested and sorted by hand, and then placed in stainless steel temperature controlled vats for an extended maceration of 20-30 days. Fermentation is conducted at between 82.4°F and 89.6°F, which is considered moderate and accounts for the perfumed nature of wine’s nose. The wine is finished and aged in oak barrels.

According to the Château Pichon Baron website, the second label Les Tourelles is composed mostly of Merlot taken from the Saint Anne plot, a lesser plot than the “Butte de Pichon Baron.” No matter, in a great vintage like 2000, even the lesser plots performed admirably. The reliance on Merlot certainly accounts for the roundness and smooth, integrated flavor of the Les Tourelles. The website claims a 15 year, or more, aging window. Recently tasted at 17 years and the wine is going strong. Although it tastes like the wine may have levelled off in terms of potential improvement, the wine possesses enough density and structure to continue to hold for many more years.

So, a look at the numbers… Château Pichon Baron was released in 2003 at approximately $100/bottle. Wine Spectator rated the wine at 93 points. Today, the wine can be found in many outlets in the US and it carries an average price of $264/bottle (164% increase). The wine was re-tasted by Wine Spectator in 2016 and scored a 94. Slightly improved.

Les Tourelles was also released in 2003 at approximately $20/bottle (we paid $24.64/bottle). Wine Spectator rated the wine at 88 points. Today, the wine can only be found in Trenton, NJ at $80/bottle (224% increase from our cost). The wine was never re-tasted by Wine Spectator, but our recent taste confirms that it is holding fast.

Looking at the numbers and judging by our most recent sample, I’m really glad we bought the case of Les Tourelles when we did. Now, while you can’t get the 2000 Les Tourelles anymore, unless you happen to have healthy disposable income and are convenient to Trenton, the moral of the story proves that the “second label” buying strategy in great vintages is sound and should be heeded. Why is this important? Because recent vintages in Bordeaux ARE available and the hype and prices are not getting any better… So buying second labels is an effective way of bringing great, age-worthy wine into the cellar without completely ruining the budget.

It was over 30 years ago when I first tasted Sardinian wines. The wine maker had traveled to the US to promote his wines, which at the time were almost unknown. He had contacted small tasting groups in the area and literally came into my friend’s house to offer his wines. It was my first exposure to the island wines of Sardinia and one that I have never forgotten. The wines were unique and tasted like nothing I had drank up to that point. Not to say that I had much in the way of “global” wine experience back then, but the wines all had a refreshing and vibrant character, reflective of the sunny climate of the islands. Today, Sardinian wines are much more prevalent, almost mainstream. Although, the grape names can be confusing and many are only grown in Sardinia, which proves a challenge to sell. Despite the challenge, many restaurants and wine shops are doing their level best to introduce us all to the magical wines of Sardinia.

One producer that is making a big splash is Argiolas (http://www.argiolas.it/en/index.html), a family-owned winery that was started in the early 1900’s in the commune of Serdiana in southern Sardinia. The commune is roughly 12 miles north of the capital city of Cagliari. Here in Sedriana the Argiolas family owns several vineyard parcels, planted with mostly traditional Sardinian varietals. The family also owns vineyards in adjoining communes, Parteolla, Siurgus, Selegas and Guamaggiore. Overall, Argiolas has over 500 acres under vine in some of the most prized areas of Sardinia. The variety of soil, climate and elevation of their many properties gives them an opportunity to truly showcase the many indigenous grapes known only to Sardinia.

Two wines of note that I have enjoyed recently are the Costera and the Perdera, both wines in the Argiolas Tradition, or “mid-priced” category.

The Costera is a Cannonau di Sardegna (DOC) wine. The varietal is Cannonau, or Grenache as it is known in France and was brought by the Romans to Sardinia from Spain. The grapes are sourced from several vineyards, with the predominant soil having limestone, and clay elements, with a medium, loose mixture of small and medium-sized stones and pebbles. The climate is predominantly Mediterranean, with mild winters, limited rainfall, and very hot and windy summers. The wine is produced in a state-of-the-art facility employing temperature controlled primary fermentation, lasting about 12 days following maceration. Full malolactic is employed to soften the acids and the wine is then aged in small oak cooperage for up to 10 months. The wine is unfiltered, but mildly fined to remove some sediment. The wine itself has a bright, ruby and garnet color with a lively, spicy nose. On the palate, the wine exhibits red fruit notes with moderate tannin and acid providing good structure and balance. Not intended for long-term aging, the wine is drinking very well, although some bottle age will integrate the tannins.

The Perdera is a Monica di Sardegna (DOC) wine. Monica is a red grape that is almost solely grown in Sardinia. Like Cannanau, the grape originated in Spain, but it is no longer grown there. The grapes are sourced from several vineyards, again with limestone and clay structure and loose gravel top soil. The climate is Mediterranean, again with very limited rainfall, only averaging about 21 inches per year. Like the Costera, fermentation is temperature controlled, lasting about 10 days allowing a moderate extraction of tannin and pigment. The wine is again unfiltered and is aged in small oak cooperage for up to 8 months. The wine has a bright, ruby complexion with dark undertones and a spicy, lightly jammy nose. On the palate, the wine exhibits cherry and berry fruit with a hint of “sweetness.” The wine is structured, but possesses roundness with a smooth finish. Not intended for long-term again and drinking nicely.

Wine making in Moulis, the Bordeaux commune from which Château Poujeaux originates, dates to the Romans. Evidence of several Roman vineyards have been found in Moulis, with genetic material uncovered of the Biturica grape, which was believed to be the first grape cultivated by the Romans in Bordeaux. Like many grapes found in France in ancient Roman vineyards, the trail leads back to Spain. In fact, it is believed that the Romans brought the Balisca grape from Spain to Southwest France and began cultivation of vines in Bordeaux. The natural harbor and the well-drained soil was a primary factor in the Romans choosing Bordeaux as a major wine center. Over time, it is believed that the Biturica grape evolved into Cabernet Sauvignon, although it is more likely that the evolution produced Carménère instead. Whichever is the case, we can be thankful that the Romans did what they did, because the modern wines from Moulis are wonderful.

Another interesting fact – the name Moulis derives from the word Moulin, or Mill. The commune owes its name to the historic use of the region, after the Romans departed, which was the milling of grain. Once the Dutch entered the picture and made substantial investments to dramatically increase wine production for export by the Dutch East India Company, the grain milling days of Moulis ended.

Château Poujeaux is arguably one of the best properties in Moulis, vying for attention with another well-known Moulis property, Chasse-Spleen. Both are favorites of mine and our cellar has vintages of both wines going back to 1970. In 2003, the Cru Bourgeois reclassification bumped Poujeaux, along with eight other wines into the higher-level category of Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels, worthy recognition for sure. The property was owned for many generations by the Theil family until early 2008. At that point, ownership changed to Philippe Cuvelier, who is also owner of the Saint-Émilion property, Clos Fourtet.

The property itself consists of approximately 126 acres under vine, with the typical blend of grapes to be 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Unlike neighboring communes Margaux and Graves, the soils of Moulis have smaller concentrations of gravel mixed with clay and limestone. While not ideal, the soil type is beneficial for Merlot, which likely is a factor in the blend.

Unlike the West Coast of the United States, specifically, California, vintage quality and character can vary widely from year-to-year. Case in point, comparing and contrasting 2009 with 2010 offers a very good example. With the 2009 vintage, my experience with Bordeaux is a story about lush, jammy wines that have well-integrated tannins. Approachable and quaffable from their youth with solid potential to improve. With the 2010 vintage, my experience is more a story of intense structure with deeper, darker fruits that are more tightly wound. The wines are drinking okay, but it is clear that 2010 is more of a “classic” Bordeaux vintage, requiring some bottle age to produce wines of exquisite beauty.

This is clearly evident in Poujeaux, where the 2010 is absolutely classic Right Bank Bordeaux. A dense, dark fruit palate is supported by great tannic structure and while the wine is nice to drink now, I can see that the wine has tremendous potential. Compare the 2009 and you find a wine that is far less structured, with a rounder, simpler palate. The potential is harder to see in the 2009, although I expect the wine to age nicely.

Interestingly, the 2010 is priced at about $10 less than the current retail price of the 2009, which is often the case when a less-opulent, less-touted vintage arrives – as it is with 2010 versus 2009. Based on my notes and experience, I would buy and lay down the 2010 now before the price creeps and if you haven’t already purchased the 2009, pass.

Burgundy can be a cruel mistress. The region and relevant wine laws are highly complicated. The wines can be hard to appreciate and for the wine consumer on a budget, the often-stratospheric prices can be daunting. And yet, despite such cruelty, we are inextricably drawn to the mysterious wines of Burgundy. Which is why, when a wine arrives that represents a tremendous value, ears prick up with interest.

Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial is a relatively young estate (1994) that has a long family history of wine making. Vincent Dureuil the proprietor is regarded as one of the finest artisans of traditional Burgundy, producing wines of exceptional focus and character. According to their website, the family has been making wine in Burgundy since the 13^th Century. The estate owns about 42 acres principally in the Côtes Chalonnaise, with small amounts of vineyard land in Côtes de Beaune and Côtes de Nuit. They produce wine in about twenty appellations, again primarily in Rully or straight Bourgogne. However, they do have a 1er cru offering in Puligny-Montrachet, as well as a 1er cru offering in Nuit St George. Some of their vineyards are sporting vines as old as 70 years, while others are quite contemporary. Since 2001 the estate has been actively moving towards organic certification, eliminating herbicides and ensuring that the work of vineyard is strenuously conducted on the lunar calendar.

I recently had the pleasure of encountering some of their white and red wines from properties in Rully. I tried their Rully Blanc, Rully Blanc 1er Cru Raclot, Rully Rouge 1er Cru Le Fosse and Rully Rouge 1er Cru Vauvry and all of them were wonderful.

The Rully Blanc is 100% Chardonnay harvested from four estate-owned properties at village-level. Soils are primarily limestone and the vines average 40 years in age. All this translates to classic, white Burgundy with stone fruit, citrus zest and great minerality. Best news? Average retail is about $24-pre-discount.

The Rully Blanc 1er Cru Raclot is another 100% Chardonnay wine made with grapes from a single, estate-owned property, Raclot. The plot is in the west part of Rully and is at the highest elevation of any of their properties. As a result, the wines are more refined with a lightly-floral nose and beguiling texture. One does not think Rully when one tastes the Raclot, instead one is drawn to something further north, like Puligny. More good news… All this wine for an average retail cost of about $35-pre-discount.

The Rully Rouge 1er Cru Le Fosse is 100% Pinot Noir harvested from a relatively high-altitude vineyard, with vines averaging 70 years of age. The wine has a spicy character, with more mineral-driven notes and firm acidity. Traditional in spirit, but with very modern fruit elements. Average retail is $46-pre-discount.

The Rully Rouge 1er Cru Vauvry is also 100% Pinot Noir, but from a warmer vineyard with vines averaging 40 years in age. As a result, the wine is lusher with darker fruits and a velvety texture. Like the Le Fosse, the wine is clearly Burgundy, but with a sense of modernity. Average retail is $32-pre-discount.

Overall, the price-to-quality ratio is high on these wines, especially given that some of them are 1er Cru Rully. Aging potential is solid, given their structure, so there is no rush to drink any of these wines.

Even the cruelest mistress can show a bit of love now and then…

Well, history may be repeating itself… And this could be a great thing. Back in 2000, the 1998 vintage was being released from the Rhone, specifically the Southern Rhone and the surrounding regions of Côtes du Languedoc, Côtes du Roussillon and Provence. The wines were magical, especially the Rhone-based wines and they have proven, with almost twenty years of aging to be truly superb. At the time, we bought over a hundred cases of these wines. They were incredible values and have all stood the test of time, especially the Châteauneuf du Pape wines.

Early indicators are that the 2015 vintage, slowly coming to market this year is showing remarkably similar characteristics. The downside is that many of the properties that were outrageous values in 2000 have become quite pricey. This is not the case for one such estate, Domaine Les Grands Bois. In 2000, we scooped up several cases of their Cuvée Gabrielle, which was then retailing for $11.99 pre-discount. Recent sampling shows a wine that has become more complex and more refined, but is still strong and worthy of enjoyment.

Recently I was offered the 2015 Cuvée Philippine and it is stunning. The wine is showing all the characteristics of the 1998, perhaps with just a hint more blackberry jam. At $17.99 pre-discount the wine is a tremendous bargain. Yes, the price represents a 33% increase in price, but over 19 years that increase translates to less than 1.7% annually, which is far below the average cost of living increase…

Domaine Les Grands Bois is a small (approximately 110 acres) property with vineyards in several prized appellations. The winery itself was started in 1920 by Albert Farjon in Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes, just outside of the city of Orange. Albert was a farmer at heart and spent most of his time cultivating the vineyards, understanding the importance and distinction of an estate-owned property. Today, the property is owned and operated by Albert’s niece, Mireille and her husband Marc, together with their three daughters, Philippine, Gabrielle and Eloïse.

The vineyards of Domaine Les Grands Bois are spread over seven communes, located in Sainte Cécile les Vignes, Lagarde-Paréol, Suze la Rousse, Tulette, Cairanne, Rasteau, and Travaillan. The properties are at an average altitude of 400 feet with a wide-variety of soil types, consisting of clay-limestone, red stony clays, and large granitic pebbles. The soil types are critical to a slow, even growing cycle, by storing heat during the day, and releasing that energy at night to keep the vines warm. Additionally, gravelly alluvium and soft, moderately moist sandy clays are also found, which promote excellent drainage and prevent rot.

The overall climate is Mediterranean with very little Summer precipitation, and extraordinary sunshine. The Mistral, the often-gale-force wind that blows through the region, is a factor, which is managed through appropriate trellising and pruning.

The winery produces nine bottlings from several important appellations: Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Côtes du Rhône, and Rasteau. Many of the bottlings are cuvées named for the proprietors and their children. The wines are all a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan, although they lean heavily (55%) towards Grenache. Over 75% of the vines date back to 1950, with a small percentage dating back to 1902, making most of the crop Vielle Vigne, or “Old Vines.” Vineyard management is meticulous and harvesting is performed by hand.

The winery itself dates to 1929, but was extensively renovated and updated in 1990, with the introduction of stainless steel fermentation vats, concrete aging tanks and barriques for extended maturation.

The 2015 Domaine Les Grands Bois Cuvée Philippine is a Côtes du Rhone Villages and it is a monster of a wine. With dark, jammy fruit and forceful, but integrated tannins, the wine will age beautifully. If a recent taste of the 1998 is any indication, buying several cases would be the way to go. And at $17.99 pre-discount, the wine is a tremendous value.

As I get older, I find myself gravitating to fewer and fewer regions to slake my thirst. This is not to say that I don’t relish trying new wines or making the veritable “world tour of wine” on any given weekend, but when it comes to every day drinking, I find my stops are limited to only a few vineyards.

One of those vineyards is inevitably in the Veneto in northeast Italy, home to many of the world’s most well-known wines. Like many regions in Italy, the Veneto has been experiencing a bit of a rebirth over the last decade as winemakers use a combination of technology, flexibility and artisanship to make their wines better. Combine these efforts with the positive support of Mother Nature and you have all you need to put a smile on most wine drinker’s faces.

It’s no secret – scroll through my posts and you will find that the Veneto is clearly a favorite, especially Valpolicella. More often than not, I’m posting about this Amarone, or that Vino di Ripasso, extolling the virtues of their complexity and drinkability. Admittedly this may appear myopic, as Amarone and Vino di Ripasso are a small contingent in the “sea” of wine flowing from the greater Valpolicella region. Enter Ca’ La Bionda, a small, fourth generation producer in the commune of Marano di Valpolicella, in the heart of the historically “classic” area of the Valpolicella.

The winery was founded in 1902 by Pietro Castellani a truly passionate and dedicated grape grower and wine-maker. Fortunately for us, Pietro imbued his successors with the same love and passion for grape growing and wine making, because today, members of the Castellani family continue these fine traditions. All phases of the wine-making process, from the cultivation of the highest quality grapes, to grape harvesting, vinification, and ageing are all carried out directly by the family.

Ca’ La Bionda does produce Amarone (two actually), as well as a Vino di Ripasso. They even produce a Recioto dessert wine, but experience has taught me that the measure of a winemaker’s ability is best found in their mid-level offerings. For this reason, the CasalVegri bottling is a prime candidate for study.

The wine is made from grapes grown in the estate-owned CasalVegri vineyard. The family feels that all of the contributing factors to great winemaking, micro-climate, soil composition and hill-side topography, combine to enable the production of some really terrific wine. The family is so confident of the wine’s potential that they have made the conscious decision to use 100% of the grapes grown in this vineyard for the making of a single Valpolicella Classico. The family does not cull the best of the crop for Amarone, nor do they employ the “ripasso” technique, in their opinion, “to correct” the shortcomings of the vineyard, both conscious decisions that produce a wine of exacting purity and character.

The wine is the usual blend, consisting of 70% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, and 10% Rondinella. The vineyard soil is mainly clay-limestone with a high proportion of rock and stone, which contributes minerality and structure to the resulting wine. The vineyard is located on an east-facing hillside, at between 300 and 900 feet above sea-level. The elevation and orientation promotes slow maturation and ripeness, which contributes to the finesse and elegance of the resulting wine.

Fermentation occurs in temperature-regulated stainless steel tanks at a temperature of no more than 77°F, which is relatively cool and ensures the preservation of the delicate flavors and aromas present in the grapes. Following fermentation, the wine is aged for 18months, 90% in large 3000 liter (792 gallon) barrels and the remaining 10% in 225 liter (59 gallon) barriques. The wine undergoes a further 6 months of bottle ageing before being released to the public.

Overall the wine is a charming quaffer with hints of fresh cherry and violets in the nose and lively, spicy fruitiness on the palate. Well-balanced with well-integrated tannin, the wine exhibits moderate length and a layered complexity on the finish. The wine is drinking well now and should continue to improve with another 5 to 7 years in the bottle.

At the average price of $19.99/bottle before discount, this wine is a very good value and makes a worthy addition to the cellar.

Cheers!