Monthly Archives: April 2017

The King’s Cocktail

28 Friday Apr 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails

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KingsCocktail

Koningsdag, or King’s Day is a national holiday in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. It is celebrated on April 27th, which is the birthday of the presiding King, Willem-Alexander. Up until 2013, when Queen Beatrix abdicated and was succeeded by her son Willem-Alexander, the holiday was known as Koninginnedag, or Queen’s Day and was celebrated on April 30th, the Queen’s birthday… You see how this works, right?

The holiday was initially observed on August 31, 1885 as Prinsessedag, or Princess’s Day, the fifth birthday of Princess Wilhelmina, heir to the Dutch throne at the time. On her accession in November 1890 the holiday acquired the name Koninginnedag, and was first celebrated on August 31, 1891. In September 1948, Wilhelmina’s daughter Juliana ascended to the throne and the holiday was moved to Queen Juliana’s birthday, April 30th. The holiday was celebrated on this date beginning in 1949.

Juliana’s daughter, Beatrix, retained the celebration on April 30th after she ascended the throne in 1980, even though her birthday was January 31st. All very confusing, really…

Queen Beatrix abdicated on Koninginnedag in 2013 probably as a result of not maintaining the holiday on her specific birthday, and her son, Willem-Alexander, ascended the throne (the first king since the observance of the national holiday). As a result, the holiday became known as Koningsdag beginning in 2014, and the celebration was moved to the King’s birthday, April 27th.

Koningsdag is known for its nationwide vrijmarkt (“free market”), which is essentially a country-wide flea market. Quite scary, actually… The day is also an opportunity for “orange madness” or oranjegekte, a frenzied celebration of the Dutch national color. Orange is everywhere on April 27th, and I mean everywhere…

In honor of this auspicious holiday, why not create a cocktail celebrating King’s Day?

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you, The King’s Cocktail, or De Konings Cocktail:

2oz. Gin

1oz. Grand Marnier

1/2oz. Campari

1/2oz. Lemon Juice

Shake the ingredients with crushed ice, vigorously. Strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with an orange twist.

Enjoy!

 

Aram’s Coffee Café Belmont, MA

15 Saturday Apr 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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AramsLogo

I used to head into Belmont religiously to have my older cars serviced. As my cars became newer models, and after we left Somerville, it became less convenient to make the trek. I still head back, at least twice a year, though, to have the tires changed (summer -> winter and back again) and when I do, I make my pilgrimage back to Aram’s Café (https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHZL_enUS687US687&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=aram’s+cafe+Belmont)…

It’s no secret. If you have been reading my blog then you know my feelings about breakfast (and many other things, as well). So, an opportunity to savor authentic home-cooked, ethnically-oriented breakfast food will not be missed.

Aram’s is exactly that opportunity. I usually visit early… like, “I’m the second guy in the door early…” Never crowded at that time, but I imagine it could get quite busy. The space is small – a counter that seats about ten and another four four-person booths – that’s it. Cooking is done right before your eyes, with only a few prep activities taking place in a back-kitchen area. Family run – I’ve only met the patriarch himself – a sixty-eight-year-old first generation Armenian who reminds me of my late father. You know, older, distinguished, a little out of shape, but in the day, you can tell he was ripped. Engaging and opinionated – don’t ask a question if you don’t want to get a lecture… and don’t be surprised if you don’t agree… thing is, Aram really doesn’t care whether you agree… For me, I love the guy… but I’m a bit of a grumpy old fart myself.

The food is great. All home-cooked, all fresh. I always get one of the Armenian omelets – either tomato and soujouk (sausage) or the tomato and basterma (pastrami). Both are wonderful, with exotic flavors that don’t overpower. Served with home fries and toast, they make a filling breakfast that easily carries me through the day. I’ve also had the eggs benedict and can say that Aram makes a mean Hollandaise sauce.

AramsSoujouk

Prices are right, especially for what you get, inclusive of the conversation.

On my last visit, Aram offered that he is thinking of retiring in a few years, turning the daily operation over to his kids… visiting when he wants to help out now and then… I said that sounds like a good plan. We looked at each other and laughed… we both knew that would never happen…

 

2000 Les Tourelles de Longueville

14 Friday Apr 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Wines

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LesTourelles

The 2000 vintage in Bordeaux was considered an exceptional vintage. It was mildly hyped, in comparison to many other vintages like 2005, which tended to keep prices moderate. The 2000 vintage was preceded and followed by vintages that were only considered “good quality” with less aging potential. This fact worked against the moderate prices, as demand for age-worthy wines increased. For the average wine consumer, buying “second labels” afforded some relief.

In the 2000 vintage, we purchased about twenty different producers that we felt represented good value. We employed the classic buying strategy – buy the “second labels” of noted properties. Turns out the strategy paid dividends, because among those producers purchased was the second label of Pauillac powerhouse Château Pichon Baron, known as Les Tourelles de Longueville.

Château Pichon Baron is a “second growth” wine in the famous classification of 1855. As such, the wine has extraordinary pedigree and generally produces wines of considerable structure and age-worthiness. The Château Pichon Baron website clearly states that their flagship wine “is a wine that improves year after year and can age for over 40 years in the cellar.” Age-worthy indeed.

PichonBaronEstate

Château Pichon Baron was once part of a much larger estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan. In 1850, the estate was divided into two properties, Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, or as they are commonly known: Château Pichon Baron and Château Pichon Lalande.

PichonBaronLabel
PichonLalandeLabel

 

Château Pichon Baron has approximately 177 acres under vine, planted with 65% Cabernet-Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The vineyard is arranged into several plots, the best of which is called the “Butte de Pichon Baron.” The average age of the vines on this plot is 30 years. Grapes are harvested and sorted by hand, and then placed in stainless steel temperature controlled vats for an extended maceration of 20-30 days. Fermentation is conducted at between 82.4°F and 89.6°F, which is considered moderate and accounts for the perfumed nature of wine’s nose. The wine is finished and aged in oak barrels.

According to the Château Pichon Baron website, the second label Les Tourelles is composed mostly of Merlot taken from the Saint Anne plot, a lesser plot than the “Butte de Pichon Baron.” No matter, in a great vintage like 2000, even the lesser plots performed admirably. The reliance on Merlot certainly accounts for the roundness and smooth, integrated flavor of the Les Tourelles. The website claims a 15 year, or more, aging window. Recently tasted at 17 years and the wine is going strong. Although it tastes like the wine may have levelled off in terms of potential improvement, the wine possesses enough density and structure to continue to hold for many more years.

So, a look at the numbers… Château Pichon Baron was released in 2003 at approximately $100/bottle. Wine Spectator rated the wine at 93 points. Today, the wine can be found in many outlets in the US and it carries an average price of $264/bottle (164% increase). The wine was re-tasted by Wine Spectator in 2016 and scored a 94. Slightly improved.

Les Tourelles was also released in 2003 at approximately $20/bottle (we paid $24.64/bottle). Wine Spectator rated the wine at 88 points. Today, the wine can only be found in Trenton, NJ at $80/bottle (224% increase from our cost). The wine was never re-tasted by Wine Spectator, but our recent taste confirms that it is holding fast.

Looking at the numbers and judging by our most recent sample, I’m really glad we bought the case of Les Tourelles when we did. Now, while you can’t get the 2000 Les Tourelles anymore, unless you happen to have healthy disposable income and are convenient to Trenton, the moral of the story proves that the “second label” buying strategy in great vintages is sound and should be heeded. Why is this important? Because recent vintages in Bordeaux ARE available and the hype and prices are not getting any better… So buying second labels is an effective way of bringing great, age-worthy wine into the cellar without completely ruining the budget.

 

The Looking Glass Cafe, Wrentham, MA

13 Thursday Apr 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. A nutritious and delicious breakfast is the key to happiness. This is probably why I love diners so much… There is nothing like the stick-to-your-ribs cuisine found in the American diner. I mean nothing. Some diners are traditional, Worcester Dining Car types, others are mere holes in the wall. Then there are the more visible, retro-styled establishments reminiscent of the 1950’s car hops. Some are just café store fronts. Regardless of the form, you can usually count on great food, served fast and at a great price.

The Looking Glass Café (https://www.facebook.com/TheLookingGlassCafe/) is one of those store-front type diners located in the heart of Wrentham Center.

The décor is clean and simple with counter service, two booths and another five or six tables. Not a lot of space, but enough.

The food is standard diner fare, with breakfast served from until closing and lunch from around noon to closing, which is 3:00 pm daily.

LookingGlassTasteOIrish

My favorites are the Taste of Ireland and the Looking Glass Eggs Benedict – both are served with homemade corned beef hash. In the case of the Taste of Ireland, you enjoy two eggs any style, two slices of raisin toast, home fries and the previously mentioned hash. With the Benedict, substitute Canadian bacon for hash and you’re rolling. The Hollandaise is silky and creamy and home fries are extra.

Breakfast specials are always a treat, like their Chili and Cheese Omelet!

LookingGlassChiliOmelette

There are a host of other goodies and the lunch specials are always a treat.

Weekends can get busy, but the efficient wait staff keep things moving so wait times are always reasonable.

So, if you find yourself on Route 1A in Wrentham Center, make sure you stop in at the Looking Glass Café…

Argiolas

11 Tuesday Apr 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Wines

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It was over 30 years ago when I first tasted Sardinian wines. The wine maker had traveled to the US to promote his wines, which at the time were almost unknown. He had contacted small tasting groups in the area and literally came into my friend’s house to offer his wines. It was my first exposure to the island wines of Sardinia and one that I have never forgotten. The wines were unique and tasted like nothing I had drank up to that point. Not to say that I had much in the way of “global” wine experience back then, but the wines all had a refreshing and vibrant character, reflective of the sunny climate of the islands. Today, Sardinian wines are much more prevalent, almost mainstream. Although, the grape names can be confusing and many are only grown in Sardinia, which proves a challenge to sell. Despite the challenge, many restaurants and wine shops are doing their level best to introduce us all to the magical wines of Sardinia.

 

One producer that is making a big splash is Argiolas (http://www.argiolas.it/en/index.html), a family-owned winery that was started in the early 1900’s in the commune of Serdiana in southern Sardinia. The commune is roughly 12 miles north of the capital city of Cagliari. Here in Sedriana the Argiolas family owns several vineyard parcels, planted with mostly traditional Sardinian varietals. The family also owns vineyards in adjoining communes, Parteolla, Siurgus, Selegas and Guamaggiore. Overall, Argiolas has over 500 acres under vine in some of the most prized areas of Sardinia. The variety of soil, climate and elevation of their many properties gives them an opportunity to truly showcase the many indigenous grapes known only to Sardinia.

 

Two wines of note that I have enjoyed recently are the Costera and the Perdera, both wines in the Argiolas Tradition, or “mid-priced” category.

Argiolas-costera_et

 

The Costera is a Cannonau di Sardegna (DOC) wine. The varietal is Cannonau, or Grenache as it is known in France and was brought by the Romans to Sardinia from Spain. The grapes are sourced from several vineyards, with the predominant soil having limestone, and clay elements, with a medium, loose mixture of small and medium-sized stones and pebbles. The climate is predominantly Mediterranean, with mild winters, limited rainfall, and very hot and windy summers. The wine is produced in a state-of-the-art facility employing temperature controlled primary fermentation, lasting about 12 days following maceration. Full malolactic is employed to soften the acids and the wine is then aged in small oak cooperage for up to 10 months. The wine is unfiltered, but mildly fined to remove some sediment. The wine itself has a bright, ruby and garnet color with a lively, spicy nose. On the palate, the wine exhibits red fruit notes with moderate tannin and acid providing good structure and balance. Not intended for long-term aging, the wine is drinking very well, although some bottle age will integrate the tannins.

 

Argiolas-perdera_et

The Perdera is a Monica di Sardegna (DOC) wine. Monica is a red grape that is almost solely grown in Sardinia. Like Cannanau, the grape originated in Spain, but it is no longer grown there. The grapes are sourced from several vineyards, again with limestone and clay structure and loose gravel top soil. The climate is Mediterranean, again with very limited rainfall, only averaging about 21 inches per year. Like the Costera, fermentation is temperature controlled, lasting about 10 days allowing a moderate extraction of tannin and pigment. The wine is again unfiltered and is aged in small oak cooperage for up to 8 months. The wine has a bright, ruby complexion with dark undertones and a spicy, lightly jammy nose. On the palate, the wine exhibits cherry and berry fruit with a hint of “sweetness.” The wine is structured, but possesses roundness with a smooth finish. Not intended for long-term again and drinking nicely.

Masi Agricola

02 Sunday Apr 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Wine Events, Wines

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logo_cantina_privata

The more time I spend tasting the wines from the Veneto, the more I appreciate their many treasures. The Veneto has a long history of wine making and is one of the most productive regions in all of Italy. The wines of the Veneto have great diversity of style and represent the largest production of DOC-level wines in all of Italy. More than half the wine production is to white wines, but it is the red wine that has made the Veneto so famous. While Soave is undeniably one of the most well-known white wines in the world, Valpolicella and Bardolino rank high on the list of well-known reds. A lot of this fame is due to the massive quantities of mediocre wine that flooded the market during the 60’s and 70’s, which is something that producers in the Veneto are actively trying to change. The good news is that the once low-brow opinion of Venetian wines is being supplanted by critical acclaim.

 

One of the producers leading the way to excellence is Masi Agricola (http://www.masi.it/eng/home/), an old, family-owned operation that has its roots in the Veneto going back to the 18th century in the Vaio dei Masi, or the small valley in Valpolicella where their original production began. The original owners of Masi, the Boscaini family still own what has grown into a massive wine enterprise, producing some of the best wines from the Veneto, as well as extending beyond Italy to produce award-winning wines from Argentina. Masi is considered a leader in the Veneto, perfecting the time-honored process of Appassimento, or air-drying of the grapes to produce wines of great intensity and complexity.

MasiFranklin

 

I had the pleasure of joining several folks at the Franklin Wine Club last week to taste through a representative portfolio of Masi wines. The tasting was led by Tony Apostolakos, US Director of Marketing and Sales for Masi Agricola. Tony was entertaining and informative and the wines showed beautifully. The wines that stood out for me, are the following:

MasiPG

 

2015 Masi Agricola Masianco Pinot Grigio, Venezie – A lovely wine with a lemony/citrus nose with honey and toffee hints. The wine is surprisingly full-bodied for a Pinot Grigio, likely due to the addition of Verduzo to the blend. Well-balanced with a pleasant, long finish. A very good value.

MasiRosa

 

2016 Masi Agricola Rosa die Masi, Venezie – A charming and refreshing rosé wine with a soft floral nose and peach hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity. Red berry and strawberry notes on the palate with moderate length. 100% Refosco. Good value.

MasiCampofiorin

 

2013 Masi Agricola Campofiorin Rosso, Veronese – A deep, dark wine with black cherry, exotic spice and dried fruit hints on the nose. Medium-bodied with firm acidity and tannin. Sour cherry palate with subtle complexity on the finish. 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara, vinified individually after a brief appassimento and then blended.

MasiBrolo

 

2010 Masi Agricola Brolo Campofiorin Oro, Veronese – An intense and magical wine with a complex nose suggesting allspice, dried fruit, leather and blackberry jam. Medium-to-Full-bodied with soft acids and moderate, but well-integrated tannin. The palate is rich and laden with black fruits and tarry, tobacco notes. Very long finish with more spicy complexity and light cocoa and dark chocolate notes. The traditional blend of Corvina and Rondinella is enjoined by the rare Oseleta grape and aging takes place in small oak cooperage.

MasiTupungato

 

2014 Masi Tupungato Passo Doble, Mendoza, Argentina – Another deep, intense wine with a lively, fruity nose with blackberry and black cherry hints. Medium-to-Full-bodied with moderate acidity and a tight, tannic structure. Jammy palate with an intense, dark core of black fruit. Long finish with layered complexity. Blend of Malbec and appassimento-treated Corvina. A superb value.

MasiCostasera

 

2011 Masi Agricola Costasera Amarone Classico – A tremendous, age-worthy wine with a vibrant nose suggesting figs, dried fruit, exotic spice and floral hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity and firm tannin. Lush palate with layers of complexity. Very long finish – endless flavors emerge on the aftertaste. Very young with incredible potential – will easily improve and evolve over the next 30 – 40 years. Excellent value for Amarone.

 

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