The 2000 vintage in Bordeaux was considered an exceptional vintage. It was mildly hyped, in comparison to many other vintages like 2005, which tended to keep prices moderate. The 2000 vintage was preceded and followed by vintages that were only considered “good quality” with less aging potential. This fact worked against the moderate prices, as demand for age-worthy wines increased. For the average wine consumer, buying “second labels” afforded some relief.

In the 2000 vintage, we purchased about twenty different producers that we felt represented good value. We employed the classic buying strategy – buy the “second labels” of noted properties. Turns out the strategy paid dividends, because among those producers purchased was the second label of Pauillac powerhouse Château Pichon Baron, known as Les Tourelles de Longueville.

Château Pichon Baron is a “second growth” wine in the famous classification of 1855. As such, the wine has extraordinary pedigree and generally produces wines of considerable structure and age-worthiness. The Château Pichon Baron website clearly states that their flagship wine “is a wine that improves year after year and can age for over 40 years in the cellar.” Age-worthy indeed.

Château Pichon Baron was once part of a much larger estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan. In 1850, the estate was divided into two properties, Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, or as they are commonly known: Château Pichon Baron and Château Pichon Lalande.

Château Pichon Baron has approximately 177 acres under vine, planted with 65% Cabernet-Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The vineyard is arranged into several plots, the best of which is called the “Butte de Pichon Baron.” The average age of the vines on this plot is 30 years. Grapes are harvested and sorted by hand, and then placed in stainless steel temperature controlled vats for an extended maceration of 20-30 days. Fermentation is conducted at between 82.4°F and 89.6°F, which is considered moderate and accounts for the perfumed nature of wine’s nose. The wine is finished and aged in oak barrels.

According to the Château Pichon Baron website, the second label Les Tourelles is composed mostly of Merlot taken from the Saint Anne plot, a lesser plot than the “Butte de Pichon Baron.” No matter, in a great vintage like 2000, even the lesser plots performed admirably. The reliance on Merlot certainly accounts for the roundness and smooth, integrated flavor of the Les Tourelles. The website claims a 15 year, or more, aging window. Recently tasted at 17 years and the wine is going strong. Although it tastes like the wine may have levelled off in terms of potential improvement, the wine possesses enough density and structure to continue to hold for many more years.

So, a look at the numbers… Château Pichon Baron was released in 2003 at approximately $100/bottle. Wine Spectator rated the wine at 93 points. Today, the wine can be found in many outlets in the US and it carries an average price of $264/bottle (164% increase). The wine was re-tasted by Wine Spectator in 2016 and scored a 94. Slightly improved.

Les Tourelles was also released in 2003 at approximately $20/bottle (we paid $24.64/bottle). Wine Spectator rated the wine at 88 points. Today, the wine can only be found in Trenton, NJ at $80/bottle (224% increase from our cost). The wine was never re-tasted by Wine Spectator, but our recent taste confirms that it is holding fast.

Looking at the numbers and judging by our most recent sample, I’m really glad we bought the case of Les Tourelles when we did. Now, while you can’t get the 2000 Les Tourelles anymore, unless you happen to have healthy disposable income and are convenient to Trenton, the moral of the story proves that the “second label” buying strategy in great vintages is sound and should be heeded. Why is this important? Because recent vintages in Bordeaux ARE available and the hype and prices are not getting any better… So buying second labels is an effective way of bringing great, age-worthy wine into the cellar without completely ruining the budget.

It was over 30 years ago when I first tasted Sardinian wines. The wine maker had traveled to the US to promote his wines, which at the time were almost unknown. He had contacted small tasting groups in the area and literally came into my friend’s house to offer his wines. It was my first exposure to the island wines of Sardinia and one that I have never forgotten. The wines were unique and tasted like nothing I had drank up to that point. Not to say that I had much in the way of “global” wine experience back then, but the wines all had a refreshing and vibrant character, reflective of the sunny climate of the islands. Today, Sardinian wines are much more prevalent, almost mainstream. Although, the grape names can be confusing and many are only grown in Sardinia, which proves a challenge to sell. Despite the challenge, many restaurants and wine shops are doing their level best to introduce us all to the magical wines of Sardinia.

One producer that is making a big splash is Argiolas (http://www.argiolas.it/en/index.html), a family-owned winery that was started in the early 1900’s in the commune of Serdiana in southern Sardinia. The commune is roughly 12 miles north of the capital city of Cagliari. Here in Sedriana the Argiolas family owns several vineyard parcels, planted with mostly traditional Sardinian varietals. The family also owns vineyards in adjoining communes, Parteolla, Siurgus, Selegas and Guamaggiore. Overall, Argiolas has over 500 acres under vine in some of the most prized areas of Sardinia. The variety of soil, climate and elevation of their many properties gives them an opportunity to truly showcase the many indigenous grapes known only to Sardinia.

Two wines of note that I have enjoyed recently are the Costera and the Perdera, both wines in the Argiolas Tradition, or “mid-priced” category.

The Costera is a Cannonau di Sardegna (DOC) wine. The varietal is Cannonau, or Grenache as it is known in France and was brought by the Romans to Sardinia from Spain. The grapes are sourced from several vineyards, with the predominant soil having limestone, and clay elements, with a medium, loose mixture of small and medium-sized stones and pebbles. The climate is predominantly Mediterranean, with mild winters, limited rainfall, and very hot and windy summers. The wine is produced in a state-of-the-art facility employing temperature controlled primary fermentation, lasting about 12 days following maceration. Full malolactic is employed to soften the acids and the wine is then aged in small oak cooperage for up to 10 months. The wine is unfiltered, but mildly fined to remove some sediment. The wine itself has a bright, ruby and garnet color with a lively, spicy nose. On the palate, the wine exhibits red fruit notes with moderate tannin and acid providing good structure and balance. Not intended for long-term aging, the wine is drinking very well, although some bottle age will integrate the tannins.

The Perdera is a Monica di Sardegna (DOC) wine. Monica is a red grape that is almost solely grown in Sardinia. Like Cannanau, the grape originated in Spain, but it is no longer grown there. The grapes are sourced from several vineyards, again with limestone and clay structure and loose gravel top soil. The climate is Mediterranean, again with very limited rainfall, only averaging about 21 inches per year. Like the Costera, fermentation is temperature controlled, lasting about 10 days allowing a moderate extraction of tannin and pigment. The wine is again unfiltered and is aged in small oak cooperage for up to 8 months. The wine has a bright, ruby complexion with dark undertones and a spicy, lightly jammy nose. On the palate, the wine exhibits cherry and berry fruit with a hint of “sweetness.” The wine is structured, but possesses roundness with a smooth finish. Not intended for long-term again and drinking nicely.