Monthly Archives: April 2020

Charleston Light Dragoon Punch

27 Monday Apr 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails, Spirits

≈ 1 Comment

CharlestonLightDragoonPunch

Punch… I have written before about the history and tradition of Punch in the vernacular of American drinking tradition. Preceding the very founding of this nation, the Punch habit was not only practiced in taverns throughout colonial America, but the military was particularly fond of Punch. The convivial nature of a shared Punch bowl was perfect for the well-lubricated post-battle celebrations of military units throughout the colonies. Rest assured, where there were soldiers, there was Punch.

Of note is a delicious potation harkening from  Charleston, S.C. and recently revived by master mixologist, Sean Brock of Husk restaurant. The belief is the recipe was originally created in 1783, and then popularized by the Charleston Light Dragoons in 1792. The Dragoons were a colonial era militia that seemed to enjoy eating and drinking more than fighting, which was not unusual at the time. Eventually the Dragoons met an untimely end during the Civil War and found themselves more well-known for this Punch, than any distinguished military service.

No matter, this Punch is simply perfect, striking the balance between thirst-quenching and spiritous. I found that the blend of black tea, lemon and spirits to be a welcoming change from the many fruit-based Punches on the roll. The tannic bite of the tea, artfully supported by the crisp tang of lemon offers the ideal counterpoint to the sugar, cognac and rum. Over ice with a splash of Club Soda, this Punch is truly hypnotic.

My friends, I offer you The Charleston Light Dragoon Punch:

Ingredients
2 quarts water
7 bags black tea (I used Bigelow Earl Grey)
2 cups raw sugar
1 ½ cups fresh lemon juice
12.7 ounces brandy (I used Courvoisier VS)
12.7 ounces rum (I used Gosling Black Seal)
6.4 ounces peach brandy
Large ice cubes
Soda water
20 thin slivers of lemon peel (from about 3 lemons)

Preparation
To make the punch base:

Bring the water to a boil in a medium stainless-steel saucepan over high heat. Add the tea, remove the pan from the heat, and let the tea steep for 20 minutes.

If not using tea bags, strain the tea through a tea strainer or a fine-mesh sieve into a 1-gallon container, otherwise, merely remove and press the tea bags. Add the sugar to the hot tea and stir until it is completely dissolved. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.

Add the lemon juice, brandy, rum, and peach brandy to the tea mixture, cover, and refrigerate until cold.

To make the cocktail:

Ladle 3 ounces of the punch base into each punch cup. Add an ice cube, top off with 1 ½ ounces of soda water, and garnish with a sliver of lemon peel.

The above recipe makes about (20) servings and the Punch base can be kept in the refrigerator, well sealed for at least a week, if not more. The spirits should stabilize the mixture well.

Cin-Cin!

Angel Face Cocktail

25 Saturday Apr 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails

≈ 1 Comment

AngelFaceFullApril is the time of year that is perfect for “shoulder season” cocktails, of which the Angel Face is definitely one. What makes a “shoulder season” cocktail, you ask? “Shoulder season” cocktails are moderate in “weight” and “depth.” By weight, we allude to the feel of the cocktail on one’s palate, the “heaviness,” so to speak. By depth, we allude to a cocktail’s level of unfolding complexity. If Winter cocktails are heavy, warming libations that evoke thoughtfulness in their deeply unfolding complexity, Summer season cocktails are light and refreshing, thirst-quenching and not necessarily thought-provoking.

The Angel Face is of moderate weight and complexity. The combination of Gin, Calvados and Apricot Brandy creates a mid-palate that one definitely feels, but also possesses a certain crispness, like the snap of a ripe apple. The moderate length also stirs one’s thoughts, without being completely evocative. The cocktail was originally mentioned in Harry Cradock’s tome The Savoy Cocktail Book of 1930, so for me, it has provenance.

My friends, I present The Angel Face Cocktail:

1-1/2 oz. London Dry Gin

1/2 oz. Apricot Brandy

1/2 oz. Calvados

Shake with crushed ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

If you are looking for something to either waltz you into Winter, or samba you into Summer, the Angel Face is for you!

Cin-Cin!

 

The Periodista Cocktail

20 Monday Apr 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails, Spirits

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The Periodista, or “The Journalist” cocktail harkens back to a recipe in Harry Craddock’s Savoy Cocktail Book and is originally cribbed as a Gin-based libation. Borrowing elements from the “perfect” Martini, the Craddock recipe combines sweet and dry Vermouth to create balance and mid-palate weight. A touch of Curaçao suggests an exotic, faraway island, perhaps Cuba. Refreshing and contemplative, the drink is an alluring treat.

Somewhere along the way, when the drink arrived in Boston, the recipe had changed. Instead of Gin, one finds Dark Rum (preferably Medford Rum, which is thick with Molasses richness) as the main player. The Vermouths were replaced with Apricot Liqueur, and instead of Lemon Juice, one finds a spritz of Lime. The Boston version is gutsier and a little rougher around the edges, like Boston itself during the ‘20’s and ‘30’s. Despite the roughness, the cocktail is quite tasty, redolent with syrupy molasses and juicy apricot. So, if you want to travel to the islands by way of Beantown, then by all means, mix up a Periodista Cocktail and go for a ride!

My friends, I offer you The Periodista Cocktail:

1 ½ ounces Dark Rum (Medford or Goslings)
½ ounce triple sec (Cointreau)
½ ounce apricot liqueur
½ ounce lime juice

Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker three-quarters filled with ice. Shake until chilled, about 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe.

Cin-Cin!

The Napoleon Cocktail

11 Saturday Apr 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails, Spirits

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The Napoleon Cocktail.

On April 11, 1814, Napoleon Bonaparte signed the Treaty of Fontainebleau, abdicating his throne and beginning his brief exile on the Island of Elba. Napoleon would return to power, briefly, and then lose it all again after his defeat at Waterloo… Commemorating this day and reviving a long forgotten classic… The Napoleon Cocktail.

First recorded in Craddock’s tome, The Savoy Cocktail book in 1930, The Napoleon Cocktail is a savory, bracing riff on the classic Martini, using Fernet Branca to add layers of complexity and both Orange Curaçao and Dubonnet Rouge to give it a kiss of sweetness. Smooth and easy drinking, the cocktail is a perfect “shoulder season” libation, with just enough mid-palate weight to give it warmth, and a refreshing lightness that trumpets Spring!

My friends, I offer you The Napoleon Cocktail:

2 oz. London Dry Gin

1/4 oz. Orange Curaçao

1/4 oz. Fernet Branca

1/2 oz. Dubonnet Rouge

Shake with crushed ice and strain into chilled coupe. Garnish with a Luxardo Maraschino Cherry.

Cin-Cin!

 

Standing the Test of Time…

01 Wednesday Apr 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Wines

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I recently pulled some reasonably old wines from Cline Family Cellars out of the dark corners of the wine cellar and opened them for a taste. The results were surprisingly strong. I say surprisingly, because my personal experience with aging mid-level California wines has been decidedly mixed.

I probably should not be surprised, though. I have been enjoying Cline Family wines since the late 80’s and always found them to be a notch better than other wines at their price points. For those who are unfamiliar with the brand, Cline Family Cellars was started in 1982 in Oakley California by Fred Cline. The early vintages came from original plantings of Mourvèdre, Zinfandel and Carignane dating back to 1880. In 1989, Cline purchased a 350-acre horse farm in Carneros and relocated the winery to Sonoma County. Cline chose Rhone varietals as their focus, planting Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. As the years past, so did further expansion, both in acreage in Sonoma and in breadth of varietals, adding Pinot Noir, Merlot and Chardonnay.

Cline Family Cellars is exactly that, a family-owned operation. As their website states, the winery is “built on a passion for winemaking and rooted in respect for the land.” As such, the winery practices sustainable farming at all their sites, achieving Certified status in Sonoma County as well as the state of California. An abiding philosophy at Cline is stewardship of the land, something that is echoed in the quality of their wines.

The same attention to sustainable farming is applied to wine making, where a combination of classic techniques is combined with modern technologies to produce authentic and expressive wines that allow the quality and character of the fruit, and vineyards to speak through the wine.

The wines in question predate much of what is on the web site, so it is hard for me to say what, if any influence the current team had on their production. However, it is safe to say that the wines showed so well after nearly 20 years in the cellar because of the basic philosophies of “passion” and “respect.” The foundation upon which Fred Cline built his winery shows in the longevity if these bottles.

ClineZinfandel

2003 Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel

Bold nose, with cherry, blackberry and red current hints. Surprisingly powerful for a wine of this age. Well balanced, with moderate acid and well-integrated tannin. Silky. Burnished on the finish. Raisins, exotic spices and dried fruit on the finish. At peak. Very impressive.

ClineMorvedre

2001 Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre

Lively nose with blackberry, cherry jam notes and hints of allspice. Jammy, with elegant structure and very well-integrated tannin. At peak, but with a seemingly tireless finish… suggesting a long duration at peak! Another stellar offering!

ClineSmallFront
ClineSmallRear

2001 Cline Small Berries Mourvèdre

Spectacular fruit on the nose, bright and intense. Well-balanced with finesse and elegance and an endless, layered finish. Black cherry, menthol and eucalyptus in the palate with dried currant, raisin and tar on the aftertaste. Remarkable!

 

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