Category Archives: Spirits

1919 Cocktail

01 Friday May 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails, Spirits

≈ 1 Comment

 

Boston is a city rich in history. Whether it is related to tea being dumped in the harbor, or something more modern, Boston is, in the words of author Stephen Puleo, A City So Grand.

Interestingly enough, today’s cocktail is based on a topic that first introduced me to the easy writing style of Mr. Puleo – the famous Boston molasses flood. Mr. Puleo’s book Dark Tide is the captivating story of an event that is both horrifically tragic, as well as somewhat comic from a distance. On January 15, 1919, on the eve of Prohibition, a massive storage tank in Boston’s North End, which was filled to capacity with warm, sludgy molasses, burst. The pressure of thousands of gallons of molasses created a 40-foot-high freight train of stickiness that claimed 21 lives and flattened anything in its path. Of note, the old elevated train system that ran adjacent to the tank, was taken out of service and badly mangled as a result of the molasses crashing into its supporting superstructure. Visiting the North End today one can still see the dark molasses staining on many of the buildings. And on a warm afternoon, if the wind is exactly right, you can actually smell the faint acrid aroma of dried molasses.

Leave it to someone to create a cocktail in honor of such an auspicious event… Ben Sandrof, a tremendous resource on all sides of the beverage business, crafted the 1919 Cocktail in honor of Boston’s molasses flood. It seems almost ironic that a molasses tank, whose contents is the primary ingredient in making Rum, burst on the eve of Prohibition. Odd thing is that the molasses in the tank was not used to make Rum, but instead industrial ethanol to produce gun powder. No matter, like any iconic event, a cocktail seems appropriate.

The mix of ingredients in the cocktail is unusual, in that it blends Rye, Rum, Punt e Mes, an Amaro-based mixer and Benedictine, a highly herbaceous liqueur. On first blush, it would seem that this incongruous group of dance partners could never stay in step and yet, each brings a necessary part to the harmony of the cocktail. Lightly bitter and very-well balanced, the cocktail is both refreshing and rich.

My friends, I offer the 1919 Cocktail:

3/4 oz. Rye
3/4 oz. Rum
1 oz. Punt e Mes
1/2 oz. Benedictine
1 dash Chocolate Bitters

Shake ingredients with crushed ice and strain into a chilled coupe.

Cin-Cin!

Charleston Light Dragoon Punch

27 Monday Apr 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails, Spirits

≈ 1 Comment

CharlestonLightDragoonPunch

Punch… I have written before about the history and tradition of Punch in the vernacular of American drinking tradition. Preceding the very founding of this nation, the Punch habit was not only practiced in taverns throughout colonial America, but the military was particularly fond of Punch. The convivial nature of a shared Punch bowl was perfect for the well-lubricated post-battle celebrations of military units throughout the colonies. Rest assured, where there were soldiers, there was Punch.

Of note is a delicious potation harkening from  Charleston, S.C. and recently revived by master mixologist, Sean Brock of Husk restaurant. The belief is the recipe was originally created in 1783, and then popularized by the Charleston Light Dragoons in 1792. The Dragoons were a colonial era militia that seemed to enjoy eating and drinking more than fighting, which was not unusual at the time. Eventually the Dragoons met an untimely end during the Civil War and found themselves more well-known for this Punch, than any distinguished military service.

No matter, this Punch is simply perfect, striking the balance between thirst-quenching and spiritous. I found that the blend of black tea, lemon and spirits to be a welcoming change from the many fruit-based Punches on the roll. The tannic bite of the tea, artfully supported by the crisp tang of lemon offers the ideal counterpoint to the sugar, cognac and rum. Over ice with a splash of Club Soda, this Punch is truly hypnotic.

My friends, I offer you The Charleston Light Dragoon Punch:

Ingredients
2 quarts water
7 bags black tea (I used Bigelow Earl Grey)
2 cups raw sugar
1 ½ cups fresh lemon juice
12.7 ounces brandy (I used Courvoisier VS)
12.7 ounces rum (I used Gosling Black Seal)
6.4 ounces peach brandy
Large ice cubes
Soda water
20 thin slivers of lemon peel (from about 3 lemons)

Preparation
To make the punch base:

Bring the water to a boil in a medium stainless-steel saucepan over high heat. Add the tea, remove the pan from the heat, and let the tea steep for 20 minutes.

If not using tea bags, strain the tea through a tea strainer or a fine-mesh sieve into a 1-gallon container, otherwise, merely remove and press the tea bags. Add the sugar to the hot tea and stir until it is completely dissolved. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.

Add the lemon juice, brandy, rum, and peach brandy to the tea mixture, cover, and refrigerate until cold.

To make the cocktail:

Ladle 3 ounces of the punch base into each punch cup. Add an ice cube, top off with 1 ½ ounces of soda water, and garnish with a sliver of lemon peel.

The above recipe makes about (20) servings and the Punch base can be kept in the refrigerator, well sealed for at least a week, if not more. The spirits should stabilize the mixture well.

Cin-Cin!

The Periodista Cocktail

20 Monday Apr 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails, Spirits

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The Periodista, or “The Journalist” cocktail harkens back to a recipe in Harry Craddock’s Savoy Cocktail Book and is originally cribbed as a Gin-based libation. Borrowing elements from the “perfect” Martini, the Craddock recipe combines sweet and dry Vermouth to create balance and mid-palate weight. A touch of Curaçao suggests an exotic, faraway island, perhaps Cuba. Refreshing and contemplative, the drink is an alluring treat.

Somewhere along the way, when the drink arrived in Boston, the recipe had changed. Instead of Gin, one finds Dark Rum (preferably Medford Rum, which is thick with Molasses richness) as the main player. The Vermouths were replaced with Apricot Liqueur, and instead of Lemon Juice, one finds a spritz of Lime. The Boston version is gutsier and a little rougher around the edges, like Boston itself during the ‘20’s and ‘30’s. Despite the roughness, the cocktail is quite tasty, redolent with syrupy molasses and juicy apricot. So, if you want to travel to the islands by way of Beantown, then by all means, mix up a Periodista Cocktail and go for a ride!

My friends, I offer you The Periodista Cocktail:

1 ½ ounces Dark Rum (Medford or Goslings)
½ ounce triple sec (Cointreau)
½ ounce apricot liqueur
½ ounce lime juice

Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker three-quarters filled with ice. Shake until chilled, about 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe.

Cin-Cin!

The Napoleon Cocktail

11 Saturday Apr 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Cocktails, Spirits

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The Napoleon Cocktail.

On April 11, 1814, Napoleon Bonaparte signed the Treaty of Fontainebleau, abdicating his throne and beginning his brief exile on the Island of Elba. Napoleon would return to power, briefly, and then lose it all again after his defeat at Waterloo… Commemorating this day and reviving a long forgotten classic… The Napoleon Cocktail.

First recorded in Craddock’s tome, The Savoy Cocktail book in 1930, The Napoleon Cocktail is a savory, bracing riff on the classic Martini, using Fernet Branca to add layers of complexity and both Orange Curaçao and Dubonnet Rouge to give it a kiss of sweetness. Smooth and easy drinking, the cocktail is a perfect “shoulder season” libation, with just enough mid-palate weight to give it warmth, and a refreshing lightness that trumpets Spring!

My friends, I offer you The Napoleon Cocktail:

2 oz. London Dry Gin

1/4 oz. Orange Curaçao

1/4 oz. Fernet Branca

1/2 oz. Dubonnet Rouge

Shake with crushed ice and strain into chilled coupe. Garnish with a Luxardo Maraschino Cherry.

Cin-Cin!

 

Whisky and Special Cask Finishes

14 Saturday Mar 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Spirits

≈ 3 Comments

Today, we are going to explore the topic of barrel finishing Scotch.

For those who may know a lot about this subject, the following will, hopefully serve as a quick and useful review. For those to whom the topic is new, I hope the discussion serves to broaden your understanding and enjoyment of Whisky.

So, let’s start at the beginning: What is Whisky?

From Webster’s… “Whisky or whiskey is a type of distilled alcoholic beverage made from fermented grain mash. Various grains (which may be malted) are used for different varieties, including barley, corn, rye, and wheat. Whisky is typically aged in wooden casks, generally made of charred white oak.”

To fully understand how barrel finishing comes into play, it becomes necessary to review the process for making Scotch Malt Whisky:

  1. Barley is steeped in water and spread on the malting floor to germinate. This accomplishes two things – one, the water, drawn from local sources, introduces flavors into the grain (brine, iodine, peat, etc.); and two, the malting process converts the grain to fermentable sugar.
  2. The Barley is then dried, usually over a peat fire to both stop the germination, as well as to introduce other flavors into the grain (smoke, peat, earth, etc.).
  3. The dried Barley is then milled to grist, the grist is again mixed with hot water and placed in a mash tun – this mixture is called a wort.
  4. Yeast in now added to the wort and fermentation is undertaken, creating a beer-like liquid called a wash. This liquid is also frequently referred to as “low beer.”
  5. The wash is then placed in a copper, pot still called an alembic, and the liquid is distilled into the high-strength, concentrated malt spirit known as Scotch Malt Whisky. The action of distillation may involve several “runs” through the alembic until the correct degree of fineness and alcoholic strength are achieved.
  6. The extracted spirit is then placed in oak barrels to be aged, imparting yet more flavors and refining the spirit into a smooth, enjoyable drink.
    It is at this last step that is the topic at hand.

WhiskyProcess (2)

WhiskyProcess2

The act of aging Whisky in oak barrels is undertaken for three main reasons:

  1. As a flavor additive – a properly prepared oak barrel will instill certain flavors into the spirit, such as vanilla, coconut, toasty wood and caramel sweetness.
  2. As a filter – a properly prepared oak barrel will act as a filter to remove undesirable compounds from the spirit that may detract from the overall character of the spirit.
  3. As a chemical synthesizer – A properly prepared oak barrel will physically interact with the spirit to alter its chemical make up and as a result, improve the flavor and structure of the spirit. This happens as a result of specific chemical reactions, as well as concentration of the spirit through absorption and evaporation.

There are five constituent parts of oak that contribute to the maturation of the spirit:

  1. Cellulose – No flavor effects but it is critical to maintaining barrel structure.
  2. Hemicellulose – Contain simple sugars, which when properly prepared (heated and toasted) contribute body, toasty caramel notes and color.
  3. Lignin – A binding agent to cellulose, which when properly prepared (heated and toasted) contribute vanilla, spice and smoke notes.
  4. Oak Tannin – Enable oxidation, which create delicate fragrances in the spirit through chemical changes that form esters and acetals over time.
  5. Oak Lactones – Resulting from the lipids in oak, which when properly prepared (during charring) pass along strong woody flavors with coconut overtones. American oak has more lactone than European oak.

WhiskyChemistry

Three species of oak are used in the production of oak barrels, and they impart subtly different characteristics to the spirit:

  1. Quercus Alba: White, American Oak. The most commonly used wood for Whisky aging. Emphasizes vanilla flavors because of high concentration of oak lactones. Larger pore structure increase absorption and evaporation rates.
  2. Quercus Petraea: Sesille, European Oak, primarily France. The most commonly used wood for Wine aging. Fine structure emphasizes fewer tannins and slower maturation rates.
  3. Quercus Robur: Pedunculate, European Oak, primarily Spain, but found throughout. The most commonly used wood for Cognac and Sherry. Broad structure and grain make-up emphasize oxidation rates which contribute more raisin and prune-like flavors.

The most common oak barrels used for the initial aging of Whisky are:

Ex-Bourbon Hogsheads – 225-250 Liters – Because these barrels are used originally in the aging of Bourbon, the barrels are charred – meaning the inside of the cask is literally set on fire for a short period of time, which creates a black charred layer. There are various levels of charring which will have different effects on the spectrum of compounds and flavors the barrel will impart to the maturing Whisky, such as enhanced vanillin, lactones, toastiness, spiciness, and tannins. Charring casks causes further transformation. Char (carbon) removes sulfur compounds and immaturity from new spirit. Ex-Bourbon Hogsheads are typically charred for 40 seconds to 1 minute, but some distilleries have experimented with charring times of up to 3-4 minutes. The result of charring also changes the chemical composition of the inside surface of the barrel, resulting in caramelized oak lignin, which creates both sweetness and red coloration that leech into the aging Whisky. When the barrel is newly charred is when this leeching has the most dramatic effect, so by the time the barrel is used for Scotch Whisky aging, the impact is lessened.

Ex-Sherry Butt/Pipe – 450-500 Liters – Sherry casks are only toasted and not charred. The casks used to mature Oloroso are the most popular for aging Scotch Whisky. Sherry casks can be made of American Oak, but this is usually for barrels used in the production of Fino Sherries and are generally not used for aging Scotch Whisky. European Oak generally adds more flavor than American Oak – ex-sherry cask matured Whisky tends to be more full-bodied than ex-Bourbon cask matured ones, which is a result of the differences in varietal characteristics of the wood, as opposed to the prior contents of the barrel.

The majority of Scotch Malt Whisky is only aged in the aforementioned barrels. This produces a homogenous end product that consumers can count on tasting the same from year to year.

WhiskyBarrels

However, it is common for distillers to experiment with other cask types in the “finishing” of a Scotch Whisky. Legally, Scotch must be aged for a minimum of three years before it can be bottled and sold. Most well-regarded distilleries age their Scotch for far longer. During the maturation process, the distiller may select certain casks for special finishing. If this decision is made, the spirit is transferred to a special cask for a specified period of time. The special cask is referred to as a “finishing cask,” and can be taken from a wide variety of prior usage casks.

Common cask types used to “finish” a Scotch are ex-Port, ex-Sherry, ex-Rum, and ex-Wine casks. The use of a finishing cask will subtly add other flavors to a Scotch. The flavors added are a direct result of the liquid that was previously aged in the cask. For instance, Port can be very sweet and depending on the style, can have a wide range of flavors. Placing Scotch is a cask that previously held Port, will likely impart some sweetness to the Scotch, as well as some of the other flavor elements left over in the cask. Distillers spend a lot of time and money experimenting with cask types to create expressions of their Scotch that are presumably subtly better, if not more intriguing than their standard bottlings.

Some call this marketing gimmickry while others call it the true essence of an artiste. As a wine and spirits connoisseur, I call it fun and educational.

To that end, I recently had the pleasure of conducting a Scotch Malt Whisky tasting that examined the use of various finishing casks and their resulting effects. The group focused on two flights of Scotch Malt Whisky from two producers.

Glen Moray – Elgin Classic Selection – Special Cask Series

Glen Moray is a Speyside distillery producing single malt Scotch Whisky, situated on the banks of the River Lossie in Elgin. Glen Moray started production in September 1897. The distillery was sold in 2008 by the Glenmorangie Company Ltd. to La Martiniquaise.
In my opinion, Glen Moray is one of the more under-valued single malts in the market today. Their product is consistently pleasing and priced very well.

We started the flight with the Glen Moray 12-year-old Single Malt Whisky. The malt is a classic Speyside, with an easy drinking style and creamy, vanilla nose. The malt set a good baseline by which to measure the three special cask finishes.

GlenMoray-Sherry-Label
GlenMoray-Sherry-Rear

Sherry Cask Finish This example is finished for eight months in Oloroso Sherry casks. The resulting malt has a drier nose with hints of cinnamon, toffee and dried fruits. On the palate the malt is seductive with creamy vanilla and exotic spice notes. Very well-balanced and smooth.

GlenMoray-Cabernet-Label
GlenMoray-Cabernet-Rear

Cabernet Sauvignon Cask Finish This example is finished for eight months in Cabernet Sauvignon Wine casks. The resulting malt has a soft, almost fruity nose with cedar and menthol hints. Intriguing palate with hints of cherry and violet notes. Vanilla, toffee and iodine on the finish. Smooth and well-balanced.

GlenMoray-Port-Label
GlenMoray-Port-Rear

Port Cask Finish This example is finished for eight months in Port Wine pipes from Porto Cruz, a very popular Port producer. The resulting malt is drier on the nose and palate than the Sherry Cask, with cocoa and cedar notes. Subtle on the palate with a light toffee and butterscotch finish. No perceptible smoke or peat. Very well balanced and smooth.

Lost Distillery Company – Lossit – Loch & Key Society Special Cask Series

The Lost Distillery Company believes “it is a tragedy that over one hundred Scotch Whisky distilleries have been permanently closed during the last century.” The Lost Distillery Company has breathed life back into many of these distilleries, by painstakingly researching all of the important elements that made a distillery unique and then taking their research to heart by producing archival bottles of these magnificent ghosts.

Lossit-Rear-Label

One such “ghost” is Lossit, a small, farm-distillery founded in 1817 by Malcolm McNeill in the Islay distillery at Lossit Kennels, near Port Askaig. In its earliest years, Lossit was the biggest producer of whisky on Islay until they closed in 1867. Lossit used either ex-sherry, or pure oak casks. These sherry casks, infused sweet, zesty fruit flavors into the aging spirit. Fragrant peaty notes fused with floral notes from the bere barley. They sourced water from Loch Lossit.

 

This series of malts was produced especially for the Loch & Key Society and had a number of limited bottle expressions, all based on the standard cask finished Lossit. I did not get to taste the standard bottling, but reliable tasting notes suggest: A nose of sherry and dried fruits with strong peat, smoke and brine. Smoky and peaty on the palate with fruity sweetness and spiciness on the finish. Good mid-palate weight and a long, smooth finish. Well-balanced.

The special cask finishes that were tasted, are as follows:

Lossit-RiberaDelDuero-Label
Lossit-RiberaDelDuero-Detail

Ribera Del Duero Cask Finish This example is finished in the red wine casks of Ribera Del Duero from Spain. The resulting malt is heavily peated with campfire and iodine notes. Slightly sweet with red fruit elements in the nose and light cherry fruit on the palate. Well-balanced.

Lossit-Port-Label
Lossit-Port-Detail

Port Cask Finish This example is finished in Port Wine pipes. The resulting malt has pronounced chocolate and marzipan notes. Campfire and peat on the finish. Smooth and very well-balanced.

Lossit-PedroX-Label
Lossit-PedroX-Detail

Pedro Ximenes Sherry Cask Finish This example is finished in PX Sherry casks. The resulting malt is wonderfully rich, crème brûlée with wisps of campfire smoke and peat on the finish. Well-balanced and smooth.

Lossit-Rum-Label
Lossit-Rum-Detail

Rum Cask Finish This example is finished in Rum casks. The resulting malt is not as sweet as either the Port or PX Sherry Cask finishes, with no campfire and peat on the aftertaste. Still smooth and well-balanced. Sweet mid-palate with vanilla and allspice.

The Lost Distillery – Gerston – Archivist Bottling

21 Saturday Dec 2019

Posted by musingsonthevine in Spirits

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The Lost Distillery Company believes “it is a tragedy that over one hundred Scotch Whisky distilleries have been permanently closed during the last century.” The Lost Distillery Company has breathed life back into many of these distilleries, by painstakingly researching all of the important elements that made a distillery unique and then taking their research to heart by producing archival bottles of these magnificent ghosts.

One such distillery is Gerston, a North Highland producer that actually had two lives during their history. The original distillery opened by the Swanson family in 1796 and produced spirits until 1882. They were globally popular with customers as far away as Asia and Argentina. The malt was peated and exhibited a style that was traditional North Highland Coastal. Records indicate that both ex-Rum casks and ex-Wine casks were used in the aging process. After closing in 1882, the distillery remained closed until 1886, when it was reopened as a larger, more commercially-oriented distillery, producing un-peated malt. The distillery shuttered for good in 1914.

Gerston

Recently, I came across a bottle of Gerston from my friends at Julio’s in Westboro, MA. The Archivist Bottle is exemplary of the original style of Gerston. This particular malt was bottled in 2017 after being finished in Ribera del Duero casks.

Gerston-JuliosTag

The malt is a pleasure on the nose and palate, showing a light briny bouquet with dried fruits, allspice and vanilla in the nose. The palate is smooth and slightly smoky with hints of juniper, caramel and saddle leather. Very long in the finish.

Gerston-Label

The Lost Distillery Company should be commended for their efforts! The revival of high-quality malts long deceased is a labor of love. While no one really knows whether their creations are actually representative of the original products, the results of their efforts are still wonderful libations that evoke the past beautifully.

Slainte!

12 Year-Old Ledaig (Tobermory Distillery)

09 Thursday Aug 2018

Posted by musingsonthevine in Spirits

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This single malt is produced on the Isle of Mull by Tobermory. It is a 12 year-old Whisky that is heavily peated and aged in wine barrels previously used for the aging of Hermitage wine (Northern Rhone Valley – France).

The character, as you would expect is all peat, but there are undercurrents of sea air and iodine that clearly underscore the influence of island nativity. On the palate, soft elements of berry fruit with vanilla and spice combine with a subtle sweetness that makes the malt quite charming. The malt is cask strength, but is neither hot, nor rough.

Unfortunately, given the nature of these bottles, availability is limited. I found mine at Julio’s in Westborough, MA.

Timorous Beastie

18 Wednesday Jul 2018

Posted by musingsonthevine in Spirits

≈ 2 Comments

Surveys have indicated that over 80% of wines and spirits are purchased because of the label. The Australians created an entire market of wines with cute and / or provocative labels and sold millions of cases in the process.

Well, even the strongest may falter, which was the case when I found Douglas Laing and Co.’s Timorous Beastie. How could I resist with such a cute little mascot on the label? Turns out that while the label piqued my interest, the whisky inside is quite good!

The Timorous Beastie is a vatted malt, presumably a blend of some very fine Scotch: Dalmore, Glengoyne, and Glen Garioch, which is non cold-filtered and bottled at almost 50% alcohol by volume.

Initially spicy on the palate with floral and vanilla notes on the finish. A bit of heat from the alcohol, but overall a smooth and well-balanced dram. There is a lush mouth-feel to the spirit which adds a distinct seductive character.

The name of the Whisky pays homage to Robbie Burns’ timid, little field mouse from his famous poem, “To a Mouse.”

Infinitely drinkable and definitely worth pondering!

Slainte!

Mackinlay’s “Journey” Scotch Malt Whisky

11 Wednesday Jul 2018

Posted by musingsonthevine in Spirits

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Last week I posted about the Shackleton Scotch Malt Whisky, produced as the third iteration in celebration of the 1907 Antarctic Voyage by Ernest Shackleton.

Always the inquisitive one, I went on a search for any of the previous bottles and after scouring the Internet, I found a bottle of the second iteration… the “Journey.”

The Journey is another vatted malt, blended more closely to the actual recipe for the 1907 Whisky. Like the original blend, according to some sources, the Journey is impactful – full-bodied but smooth with layers of complex flavors – vanilla, allspice, char and lemongrass. A very long finish leaves a smile on one’s face.

The only problem? The Journey is all but gone and unlike the most recent Shackleton bottling, it is not cheap.

I found my bottle at The Whisky Exchange, which can legally ship to MA…

Certainly worthy of consideration if you enjoy rare malts…

Slainte!

Shackleton Blended Malt Whisky

03 Tuesday Jul 2018

Posted by musingsonthevine in Spirits

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I’m one of those guys… I firmly believe that blended whisky is perfectly fine and in many cases, is superior (cue Chivas Royal Salute) to some single malts. I especially enjoy vatted malts, which are blends of malt whisky without the addition of grain alcohol. Johnny Walker Green Label and Sheep Dip are two prominent vatted malts, as is the ubiquitous Monkey Shoulder, which is referred to as a “triple-Spey,” being a blend of three Speyside malts.

The Shackleton is a blend of over 20 malts without any grain alcohol, making it a vatted malt. This is the third iteration of the whisky, which pays homage to Ernest Shackleton, the famous polar explorer and adventurer. The whisky is presumably a recreation of the original whisky that Shackleton brought with him on the 1907 voyage of the Nimrod, of which three cases were found frozen in the ice beneath Shackleton’s abandoned base camp in 2007.

The whisky is extraordinarily delicate and complex with hints of honey, vanilla, dried fruit, and wild flowers. On the palate, the dram is smooth with a creamy character. Well-balanced with a kiss of peat, the finish is soft and a bit demure.

The real surprise is the price, retailing for $34.99 in the Boston market. This may supplant Monkey Shoulder for my go-to value in vatted malt.

Availability is good, but it won’t last forever at that price.

Slainte!

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