Grappa… Sometimes just the mention of this spirit brings about the strangest reactions… Most involve exclamations about “jet fuel” and “blindness.” My experience has been that people either love or hate grappa, there is little in between. However, like so many things, people’s real knowledge of grappa, or lack thereof leads to missed opportunities.

Growing up in an Italian household with parents who were children of the Great Depression, we wasted nothing. Now, we weren’t slaughtering our own livestock or anything like that, but my Grandfather did what every self-respecting Italian of his generation did… he made “second wine,” and grappa.

Grappa is a truly Italian product, although every country that produces wine has their version of it (Turkish Raki, for instance). Quite simply, Grappa is brandy, specifically, pomace brandy. Pomace is the collection of material left over once a wine maker presses the contents of their primary fermenting vat. The material at the bottom of the press bears a striking resemblance to a cheesecake and is loaded with all kinds of stuff. Remember this comment as we delve into the method of production for grappa…

With the formation of the European Union, many products have gained protected status – grappa being one of them. As a protected product, there are very strict criteria that define exactly what can and cannot be called “grappa.”

• First criteria – Grappa must be produced in Italy, or the Swiss Italy, or San Marino.
• Second criteria – Grappa can only be produced from pomace (unlike traditional brandy, which is distilled from pure wine).
• Third criteria – Grappa can only be produced from distillation that occurs on the pomace without the addition of water.

The third criteria is what dictates the production method for grappa, which is essentially a steam-distillation process. Traditional distillation involves the direct heating of the fermented agent to vaporize, condense and concentrate alcohol. If this method were applied to pomace, the result would be a cooked, burned mass of post-fermentation materials, with no usable by-product. With steam distillation, steam passes through the fermented material, carrying with it the essential elements that are then condensed as a highly-rarified spirit. The drawback to steam distillation is that larger amounts of methanol are extracted, which is extremely poisonous. This is one reason why homemade grappa earned a reputation for blinding and even killing imbibers. This is also the reason why the Italian government has sought strict laws around who can and cannot make grappa for resale.

Most grappa are clear, signifying that they are not aged in oak, like traditional brandy. The primary reason for this is that the spirit is known for having very subtle aromas and flavors that would otherwise be masked by the presence of wood.

More recently, some producers are experimenting with wood aging, which does produce a grappa with a pronounced hue and a different flavor profile more like brandy.

The production of grappa has definitely benefited by improvements in technology. Early examples of grappa clearly earned their designation as “jet fuel,” with the spirit having a rough, alcoholic presence. As the application of a more refined distillation process was used, the end product became much smoother and more alluring. The introduction of pressurization during the distillation process has allowed for a lower temperature extraction that preserves much more of the delicacy of the essential elements.

Like many things in the wine and spirit world there are many more grappa available today than were in the market only a few years ago. I have been actively seeking out grappa and can happily report on some of my favorites:

Moletto Grappa di Barbera

Mazzetti Altavilla Grappa di Barbera

Jacopo di Poli – Po di Poli – (Grappa from Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc)

Jacopo di Poli – Sarpa di Poli – (Grappa from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)

Jacopo di Poli – Grappa da Vinacce di Sassicaia

Marolo – Grappa di Moscato

Marolo – Grappa di Brunello di Montalcino

Marolo – Grappa di Barolo

G. Bertagnolli – Grappa di Amarone

G. Bertagnolli – Grappa di Teroldego

Nonino – Il Merlot di Grappa

Nonino – Il Moscato di Grappa

Nonino – Il Chardonnay di Grappa

I heartily recommend picking up one of the above grappa and sampling a small glass after a nice meal as the perfect digestif in the true Italian tradition. If you are an aficionado of fine spirits, you will not be disappointed.

Cheers!

As a follow-up to my posting about our recent Scotch Whisky tasting, I thought I should let people in on a little local shop who seems to have an endless selection of whisk(e)y.

When we first moved to this neck of the woods, I made the rounds of all the local wine and spirit shops. I found a handful that I really liked and unfortunately, many that I felt were just not up to snuff. That was 15 years ago. I have since visited a few of the new shops that have opened, as well as a few of the original shops. My visits usually turn out to be one of two types – either very brief or fairly lengthy, the latter being a sign of good things to come.

Well, recently I stopped back at Provo Liquors in Norfolk, MA and ended up spending the better part of an hour chatting with the amiable and ever helpful owner, Bruno Formato. Hot off of my Scotch Whisky tasting, I was in search of a few special bottles and happily Bruno had them in stock. One he did not, but he thought he would be getting it soon.

I had to compliment Bruno because his selection and assortment of whisk(e)y was nothing short of amazing. The only other store that I’ve been in recently that has a more exhaustive selection is Julio’s in Westboro. Provo is less than 10 minutes from my house. Julio’s is about 35 minutes… You know where I will run to first the next time I am in search of some arcane whisk(e)y.

Bruno and I also chatted about our very consistent philosophy about wine making and we found ourselves agreeing on the high value of most European wines, especially those from Spain and Portugal. We’re both Italians that grew up with wine on the table at almost every meal. For us, wine is not an adjunct to the meal, it is essential part of the meal, like another food. We agreed that the new term being coined in the industry, “cocktail wines,” is an unfortunate reflection of how most Americans view wine.

Bruno also graciously shared a plate of his home made prosciutto – wow, was it delicious! Just the right amount of salt with a nice subtle, yet complex flavor profile.

So, I urge you, if you are in the area, or want to make the trip, to drop by Provo Liquor on Dedham Street in Norfolk, MA. Make sure you tell Bruno that I sent you over!

And, for other great places to shop check out my web site at: http://www.musingsonthevine.com/tips_shop.shtml

Cheers!

I recently hosted a very nice Scotch whisky tasting for some very dear friends. The selection of Caledonian beauties was not exhaustive, but broad enough to showcase the incredible diversity that is Scotch.

The whisky was tasted blind over the course of a two hour period. Spring water was on hand to appropriately loosen the noses and palates of our “distinguished subjects.”

However, before I relate the findings of our little gathering, a brief digression into the basics of Scotch whisky is in order…

What is Whisky?

Whisky (Scottish), or whiskey (Irish), refers to a broad category of alcoholic beverages that are distilled from fermented grain mash and aged in wooden casks (generally oak).

Different grains are used for different varieties, including: barley, malted barley, rye, malted rye, wheat, and maize (corn).  Whisky derives from the Gaelic word for “water” (uisce or uisge), and is called in full uisge-beatha (Scotish) or uisce beatha (Irish).  The full term means “Water of Life” and it is related to the Latin aqua vitae, also meaning “water of life.” The term is always Scotch whisky, and Irish whiskey.

A Brief History of Whisky

The first written record of whisky comes from 1405 in Ireland, where it was distilled by monks.  Legend states that Saint Patrick had brought the art of distilling to Ireland in the 5th Century, but this has not been substantiated.

Another legend suggests that the art of distillation was brought back to England, Ireland, Scotland and Europe in general, by monks returning from their service in the Crusades. It is widely known that the Muslims invented, practiced and refined the art of distillation, not for the production of alcohol, but rather for the production of perfumes and other medical elixirs. Over many decades of crusading, Christians and Muslims co-mingled and it is believed that Muslim practitioners taught Christian monks the secrets of distillation. The time frame for their return is early in the 14^th century, which ties-in nicely with the written evidence of distillation in both Ireland and Scotland.

Whisky is first mentioned in Scotland in 1494 in the king’s ledger: “4 bolls of malt to Friar John Cor wherewith to make aqua vitae.”  Four bolls of malt equal fifteen hundred bottles, so it is likely that distillation existed in Scotland long before 1494 and was quite popular.  The ledger entry also underscores the fact that whisky production was clearly an exclusive activity of the monastic orders in Scotland.

All of this changed when King Henry VIII of England formed his own church, the Church of England, seized Catholic Church land holdings, closed the monasteries and literally fired all of the monks.  The unemployed monks took their talent for distilling and moved into small villages throughout Scotland and began to distill Whisky independently.  Business was brisk because farming, storing and transporting grain was a difficult endeavor in the 16th Century.  An enterprising farmer could convert a field of grain into Whisky, which was worth more than the grain itself and was much more easily transported.  The practice of having a few skalks before harvest didn’t hurt anyone either.  The term skalk applies to an early morning drink of whisky that literally translates as “a sharp blow to the head.”

Distilling Whisky became a very popular pastime, which the government tried to regulate unsuccessfully over the next few hundred years.  The Scottish didn’t much enjoy being under the control of a foreign government.  In 1707, England formally incorporated Scotland into the United Kingdom and financed the affair through a tax on Whisky.  This proved to be a significant mistake for the English, which fueled a patriotic rebellion of sorts.  Scottish “patriots” took to illegally distilling and smuggling Whisky throughout Scotland, openly defying the few bands of excise officers sent to collect the Whisky taxes.  The 18th Century proved tumultuous and bloody, with England sending troops to quell the various Whisky riots that broke out in protest of even higher taxes.  Eventually King George IV brought sanity to the situation.  On a state visit in 1822, the king tasted the Whisky produced in Glenlivet and pronounced it the official royal toasting drink.  In addition, King George IV restored previously banned Gaelic customs to Scotland and created a sensible tax structure for Whisky in 1823.  This event led to the establishment of legal distilleries and eventually the illegal stills and smugglers were replaced by a network of legally bonded Whisky distilleries.

The legitimacy of Scotch whisky allowed distillers to focus on improving quality, which was achieved primarily through aging in oak barrels.  Up to this time, Whisky had never been purposefully aged, which meant that the beverage was very rough on the palate.  The implementation of oak aging transformed Whisky from a rustic, farmers drink into a respectable beverage of the upper class.  Queen Victoria fell in love with Scotland and its native drink, which further elevated Whisky’s popularity.  To keep up with demand, the distillers began to blend the strongly flavored single-malt whiskies with the lighter grain alcohols being produced at the time and blended Scotch was born.

The growth of Scottish whisky was further aided by the advent of the phylloxera vine louse, which destroyed most of the vineyards of Europe during the end of the 19th Century.  This tragedy had the connected effect of destroying the then burgeoning Cognac/Brandy industry.  Cognac and Brandy are grape products, so with the vineyards in ruin, the Cognac industry lost its raw materials, which forced it to forfeit its market.  Scottish whisky was only too happy to step in and fill the breach, which catapulted Whisky into a whole new level.  Growth continued unchecked until the 1890’s when a series of distillery scandals, followed by grain shortages in WWI finally cut the number of Scottish distilleries (161 in 1899) in half by 1924.  Further damage was dealt to the industry when the American Temperance movement, led by Carrie Nation succeeded in winning the passage of the 18th Amendment in the US, otherwise known as Prohibition.  Given the history of illicit Whisky production and smuggling, the Scottish distillers were really only inconvenienced by Prohibition and the flow of illegal Whisky into the US at this time was significant.  Prohibition also forced Scotland to seek other markets, like the Japanese, to bolster demand.  As a result, Scottish whisky was less-traumatized than the Irish and American whiskey industries.

Scotch Whisky Types

There are two basic categories of Scotch whisky: Malt whisky, which is made primarily from malted barley that has been dried over smoking peat fires and Grain whisky, which is made from un-malted  wheat or corn.  Both whiskies are aged in used wooden Bourbon, Sherry or other wine barrels for a minimum of three years, although five to ten years is the general practice. International laws require anything bearing the label “Scotch” to be distilled in Scotland and matured for a minimum of three years in oak casks or bear a quality equal to that expected of produce from that region.  All Scotch malt whiskies are double or triple distilled in pot stills, while Scotch grain whiskies are made in column stills.  Whiskies do not mature in the bottle, only in the cask, so the “age” of a Scotch is the time between distillation and bottling. This reflects how much the cask has interacted with the Whisky, changing its chemical makeup and taste. Whiskies that have been in bottle for many years may have a rarity value, but are not “older” and will not necessarily be “better” than a more recently made whisky matured in wood for a similar time.

Single Malt Scotch Whisky is a whisky made entirely from malted barley and distilled in an onion-shaped pot still at one distillery.  It may be a mix of malt whiskies from different years, in which case the age statement on the bottle label gives the age of the youngest spirit in the blend.  The barley malt for Scottish whisky is first dried over peat-stoked fires.  The peat smoke adds a distinctive smoky tang to the taste of the malt whisky.

Vatted Malt Scotch Whisky is a blend of malt whiskies from different Scottish distilleries. If a whisky is labeled “pure malt” or just “malt” it is almost certain to be a vatted whisky. These whiskies are also sometimes labeled as “Blended Malt” whisky.

Scotch Grain Whisky is made primarily from wheat or corn with a small percentage of malted and un-malted barley included, usually in a continuous “patent” or “Coffey” still. Until recently grain was only used in blends — but there are now some “Single Grain” Scotches being marketed.

Blended Scotch Whisky is a blend of grain and malt Scotch whiskies.  A whisky simply described as Scotch Whisky is most likely to be a blend in this sense.  A blend is usually from many distilleries so that the blender can produce a flavor consistent with the brand, and the brand name (e.g. Bell’s, Chivas Regal) will usually not therefore contain the name of a distillery.

Scotch Whisky Regions

The Highlands consist of the portion of Scotland north of a line from Dundee on the North Sea coast in the east to Greenock on the Irish Sea in the west, including all of the islands off the mainland except Islay.  Highland malt Whisky covers a broad spectrum of style, which are generally aromatic with smooth, medium-bodied palates. The following are sub-regions of the Highlands: Speyside, North East,West Highland, the Orkney Isles, and the Western Isles: Arran, Jura, Mull, Skye.

The Lowlands encompass the entire Scottish mainland south of the Highlands, except the Kintyre Peninsula where Campbeltown is located. Lowland malt Whisky is light-bodied and relatively sweet and delicate.

Islay is an island off the west coast of Scotland. Typical Islay malt Whisky is intensely smoky and pungent with distinct iodine, or medicinal notes, generally taken from the sea salt that permeates the local peat that is used for drying the barley malt.

Campbeltown is a port located on the tip of the Kintyre Peninsula on the southwest coast of Scotland.  Campbeltown malt Whisky is quite distinctive with a spicy and salty tang.

Our Tasting

Now let us return to our little gathering…. Over the course of the evening we tasted eight Scotch whiskies. All of them showed exceptional character and individuality. At the conclusion of the evening, the votes were tallied and the whisky was thus rated. The following is the list, ranked from highest to lowest score:

Auchentoshan 12yr (Lowland) (Founded 1800) – 17 points

Glenmorangie 10yr (Highland) (Founded 1843) – 15 points

Glenfiddich Monkey Shoulder (Triple Speyside) (Founded 1887) – 14 points

Lombard Old Master’s (Blend) (Founded 1962) – 12 points

Ardbeg 10yr (Islay) (Founded 1815) – 10 points

Compass Box Whisky Asyla (Blend) (Founded 2000) – 9 points

Highland Park 15yr (Orkney) (Founded 1798) – 7 points

Sheep Dip (Vatted Malt) – 6 points

**As a note, scoring was based on points awarded for first, second and third place votes. First place votes receiving three points, second place receiving two points and third place receiving one point. Like anything as subjective as this exercise, personal preference becomes the rule of the day. Therefore, the scores above should be characterized not as absolute indications of quality or betterment, but instead represent the personal biases of the tasting panel present.

In the immortal words of Ron Burgundy… I love Scotch! And, because I am a person who believes in equality and fairness, I also find myself loving other spirits too… like Gin.

Imagine how happy I was to find that one of my favorite Scotch whisky distillers now produces a Gin called The Botanist! Yep… you heard me correctly. Bruichladdich, the “Progressive Hebridean Distiller” has crafted a spectacular Gin.

You can learn a lot about why Bruichladdich is one of my favorite whisky distillers at their web site: http://www.bruichladdich.com/

Briefly, Bruichladdich is on the isle of Islay, which produces some of the most unique whisky in the world. I find that you either love the distinguishing peat flavor and briny iodine found in most Islay malt, or you simply don’t. Bruichladdich whisky has the definite soul of an Islay malt, but there is a purity and concentration that I find in no other whisky from the island.

According to the marketing materials, The Botanist is a small-batch, artisanal Islay Gin, crafted from nine classic gin aromatics, and then augmented by the addition of twenty-two native Islay botanicals. The aroma and flavor profile are wildly complex, but not over-the-top – truly a very pretty Gin. The materials also speak to the distillation process – apparently an agonizing seventeen hour affair in a still that their head distiller Jim McEwan affectionately calls “Ugly Betty.” Betty prefers long, low pressure runs, which allows for a very long steeping with the botanicals that clearly accounts for the depth of complexity. It also must have a lot to do with the smoothness of the spirit. On the palate the Gin is remarkably rich and mellow with almost no bite or excessive heat. This is truly a sipping Gin that I found needed nothing, not even ice as an accompaniment. A light splash of spring water did loosen the nose a bit, but the palate is fine without it.

I can only hope that Bruichladdich continues with their Islay Gin, it will make me a very happy man!

Cheers!

I have long been a fan of Anchor Steam Beer… I think for a few decades I actually could boast having annually collected a bottle of their Christmas Ale – Always delicious with all the correct reminders of Christmas. Like most breweries, Anchor has a distilling operation, oddly enough called Anchor Distilling. I have long enjoyed their Junipero Gin and recently came across their Old Potrero Whiskey, specifically the 18^th Century Style Whiskey. I must say that I am very impressed.

Anchor makes three versions of their Whiskey: Old Potrero Straight Rye, Old Potrero Hotaling’s Single Malt Whiskey and the 18^th Century Style.

According to the sales literature, the 18^th Century Style Whiskey is Anchor’s attempt at recreating “the original whiskey of America.” The spirit was distilled in a small copper pot still at Anchor’s distillery on Potrero Hill (hence the name) from a 100% rye malt mash. The spirit is then gently aged in a mix of old and new oak barrels that have been lightly toasted over oak chip fires as opposed to heavily charred barrels a la Bourbon. The result is a lightly-colored, delicately sweet whiskey that retains much of the malt-quality of the mash. I found this an ideal sipping whiskey that opened nicely with the addition of a splash of spring water.

Anchor’s promotional materials speak to the “authenticity” of this colonial whiskey. The use of 100% malted rye, a small copper pot still and lightly toasted oak aging all add up to a very authentic experience. I actually think the whiskey is probably smoother than what our ancestors were drinking, but that’s just a hunch…

Based on the quality of the 18^th Century Style, I will be searching out the other varieties. I sense, though that the limited, small batch production may make them hard to find in the main stream.

Cheers!

Who knew that the folks living in Estonia make a wonderful liqueur (liköör)? I sure as hell didn’t until a recent foray had me stumbling upon Vana Tallinn (or “Old Tallinn” in Estonian) in the amari/liqueur aisle. Because I am a true adventurer at heart, I had to pick up a bottle and give it a try. To my surprise, the spirit is actually quite fetching.

Vana Tallinn is a dark, amber colored rum-based liqueur flavored with a secret blend of spices, including vanilla, cinnamon and citrus oils. The web site (www.vanatallinn.eu) unfurls like a game of Myst, filled with a mélange of marketing and folklore.

I have not yet started to experiment, although the web site has a curious list of cocktails…

My tasting note:

Highly aromatic with honey and floral hints. Full-bodied and velvety sweet, which artfully covers the alcoholic nature of the spirit. Long finish with butterscotch and anise. Really enjoyable as an after-dinner sipping treat.

Cheers!

I am always open to new experiences… This is how one learns, grows and finds maximum enjoyment in the limited time we have on this good earth…

So, a while back I took Facebook’s advice and “liked” a certain page: Art in the Age… It seemed interesting… From their “About” page:

Creators of organic artisan spirits: ROOT, SNAP, RHUBARB, SAGE.

Boutique/gallery space in Philadelphia, PA

Mission:

In this troubling epoch of industrial commodification, standardization of reproduction, and fomentation of a society of shallow spectacle, Art In The Age issues a challenge and rally cry. We fight fire with fire, subsuming the onslaught of watered down facsimiles and inaccessible displays with thought-provoking products of real cultural capital.

I went in search of something interesting… Not really having anything specific in mind, I stopped at Wampum Corner Fine Wine & Spirits. My hope was to wish my good friends a Merry Christmas and pick up something fun… Well, to my pleasant surprise I was presented with a fine bottle of Irish whiskey, one of which I had no prior experience, not even a passing nod of recognition, but Fran (the elder) indicated that he thought it a fine whiskey and he was wondering what I thought, so I took it home for some research!

First, some history… Clontarf has significance in Irish history, being the location north of Dublin where the decisive battle between the Vikings and the Irish under Brian Boru was fought in 1014. It marked the turning point in the Viking occupation and unfortunately the demise of Brian Boru…

Next, the whiskey is a product of Castle Brands, the folks who bring you Goslings Rum and Jefferson’s Bourbon among other products… There are three types of Clontarf – Classic Blend, Reserve and the Single Malt. I sampled the Classic Blend and found it to be quite nice, especially given its price – around $20 average retail per bottle.

The Clontarf has a smooth palate with rich, woody tones and hints of butterscotch and vanilla. Clean on the finish with a refreshing nutty, spicy quality. Quite nice for an Irish blended whiskey, which I sometimes find a little hot and one-dimensional.

So, if you’re interested in toasting a bit of Irish history, why not toast with a whiskey whose name drips of significance – Clontarf 1014!

Sláinte!