Today, we are going to explore the topic of barrel finishing Scotch.

For those who may know a lot about this subject, the following will, hopefully serve as a quick and useful review. For those to whom the topic is new, I hope the discussion serves to broaden your understanding and enjoyment of Whisky.

So, let’s start at the beginning: What is Whisky?

From Webster’s… “Whisky or whiskey is a type of distilled alcoholic beverage made from fermented grain mash. Various grains (which may be malted) are used for different varieties, including barley, corn, rye, and wheat. Whisky is typically aged in wooden casks, generally made of charred white oak.”

To fully understand how barrel finishing comes into play, it becomes necessary to review the process for making Scotch Malt Whisky:

1. Barley is steeped in water and spread on the malting floor to germinate. This accomplishes two things – one, the water, drawn from local sources, introduces flavors into the grain (brine, iodine, peat, etc.); and two, the malting process converts the grain to fermentable sugar.
2. The Barley is then dried, usually over a peat fire to both stop the germination, as well as to introduce other flavors into the grain (smoke, peat, earth, etc.).
3. The dried Barley is then milled to grist, the grist is again mixed with hot water and placed in a mash tun – this mixture is called a wort.
4. Yeast in now added to the wort and fermentation is undertaken, creating a beer-like liquid called a wash. This liquid is also frequently referred to as “low beer.”
5. The wash is then placed in a copper, pot still called an alembic, and the liquid is distilled into the high-strength, concentrated malt spirit known as Scotch Malt Whisky. The action of distillation may involve several “runs” through the alembic until the correct degree of fineness and alcoholic strength are achieved.
6. The extracted spirit is then placed in oak barrels to be aged, imparting yet more flavors and refining the spirit into a smooth, enjoyable drink.
   It is at this last step that is the topic at hand.

The act of aging Whisky in oak barrels is undertaken for three main reasons:

1. As a flavor additive – a properly prepared oak barrel will instill certain flavors into the spirit, such as vanilla, coconut, toasty wood and caramel sweetness.
2. As a filter – a properly prepared oak barrel will act as a filter to remove undesirable compounds from the spirit that may detract from the overall character of the spirit.
3. As a chemical synthesizer – A properly prepared oak barrel will physically interact with the spirit to alter its chemical make up and as a result, improve the flavor and structure of the spirit. This happens as a result of specific chemical reactions, as well as concentration of the spirit through absorption and evaporation.

There are five constituent parts of oak that contribute to the maturation of the spirit:

1. Cellulose – No flavor effects but it is critical to maintaining barrel structure.
2. Hemicellulose – Contain simple sugars, which when properly prepared (heated and toasted) contribute body, toasty caramel notes and color.
3. Lignin – A binding agent to cellulose, which when properly prepared (heated and toasted) contribute vanilla, spice and smoke notes.
4. Oak Tannin – Enable oxidation, which create delicate fragrances in the spirit through chemical changes that form esters and acetals over time.
5. Oak Lactones – Resulting from the lipids in oak, which when properly prepared (during charring) pass along strong woody flavors with coconut overtones. American oak has more lactone than European oak.

Three species of oak are used in the production of oak barrels, and they impart subtly different characteristics to the spirit:

1. Quercus Alba: White, American Oak. The most commonly used wood for Whisky aging. Emphasizes vanilla flavors because of high concentration of oak lactones. Larger pore structure increase absorption and evaporation rates.
2. Quercus Petraea: Sesille, European Oak, primarily France. The most commonly used wood for Wine aging. Fine structure emphasizes fewer tannins and slower maturation rates.
3. Quercus Robur: Pedunculate, European Oak, primarily Spain, but found throughout. The most commonly used wood for Cognac and Sherry. Broad structure and grain make-up emphasize oxidation rates which contribute more raisin and prune-like flavors.

The most common oak barrels used for the initial aging of Whisky are:

Ex-Bourbon Hogsheads – 225-250 Liters – Because these barrels are used originally in the aging of Bourbon, the barrels are charred – meaning the inside of the cask is literally set on fire for a short period of time, which creates a black charred layer. There are various levels of charring which will have different effects on the spectrum of compounds and flavors the barrel will impart to the maturing Whisky, such as enhanced vanillin, lactones, toastiness, spiciness, and tannins. Charring casks causes further transformation. Char (carbon) removes sulfur compounds and immaturity from new spirit. Ex-Bourbon Hogsheads are typically charred for 40 seconds to 1 minute, but some distilleries have experimented with charring times of up to 3-4 minutes. The result of charring also changes the chemical composition of the inside surface of the barrel, resulting in caramelized oak lignin, which creates both sweetness and red coloration that leech into the aging Whisky. When the barrel is newly charred is when this leeching has the most dramatic effect, so by the time the barrel is used for Scotch Whisky aging, the impact is lessened.

Ex-Sherry Butt/Pipe – 450-500 Liters – Sherry casks are only toasted and not charred. The casks used to mature Oloroso are the most popular for aging Scotch Whisky. Sherry casks can be made of American Oak, but this is usually for barrels used in the production of Fino Sherries and are generally not used for aging Scotch Whisky. European Oak generally adds more flavor than American Oak – ex-sherry cask matured Whisky tends to be more full-bodied than ex-Bourbon cask matured ones, which is a result of the differences in varietal characteristics of the wood, as opposed to the prior contents of the barrel.

The majority of Scotch Malt Whisky is only aged in the aforementioned barrels. This produces a homogenous end product that consumers can count on tasting the same from year to year.

However, it is common for distillers to experiment with other cask types in the “finishing” of a Scotch Whisky. Legally, Scotch must be aged for a minimum of three years before it can be bottled and sold. Most well-regarded distilleries age their Scotch for far longer. During the maturation process, the distiller may select certain casks for special finishing. If this decision is made, the spirit is transferred to a special cask for a specified period of time. The special cask is referred to as a “finishing cask,” and can be taken from a wide variety of prior usage casks.

Common cask types used to “finish” a Scotch are ex-Port, ex-Sherry, ex-Rum, and ex-Wine casks. The use of a finishing cask will subtly add other flavors to a Scotch. The flavors added are a direct result of the liquid that was previously aged in the cask. For instance, Port can be very sweet and depending on the style, can have a wide range of flavors. Placing Scotch is a cask that previously held Port, will likely impart some sweetness to the Scotch, as well as some of the other flavor elements left over in the cask. Distillers spend a lot of time and money experimenting with cask types to create expressions of their Scotch that are presumably subtly better, if not more intriguing than their standard bottlings.

Some call this marketing gimmickry while others call it the true essence of an artiste. As a wine and spirits connoisseur, I call it fun and educational.

To that end, I recently had the pleasure of conducting a Scotch Malt Whisky tasting that examined the use of various finishing casks and their resulting effects. The group focused on two flights of Scotch Malt Whisky from two producers.

Glen Moray – Elgin Classic Selection – Special Cask Series

Glen Moray is a Speyside distillery producing single malt Scotch Whisky, situated on the banks of the River Lossie in Elgin. Glen Moray started production in September 1897. The distillery was sold in 2008 by the Glenmorangie Company Ltd. to La Martiniquaise.
In my opinion, Glen Moray is one of the more under-valued single malts in the market today. Their product is consistently pleasing and priced very well.

We started the flight with the Glen Moray 12-year-old Single Malt Whisky. The malt is a classic Speyside, with an easy drinking style and creamy, vanilla nose. The malt set a good baseline by which to measure the three special cask finishes.

Sherry Cask Finish This example is finished for eight months in Oloroso Sherry casks. The resulting malt has a drier nose with hints of cinnamon, toffee and dried fruits. On the palate the malt is seductive with creamy vanilla and exotic spice notes. Very well-balanced and smooth.

Cabernet Sauvignon Cask Finish This example is finished for eight months in Cabernet Sauvignon Wine casks. The resulting malt has a soft, almost fruity nose with cedar and menthol hints. Intriguing palate with hints of cherry and violet notes. Vanilla, toffee and iodine on the finish. Smooth and well-balanced.

Port Cask Finish This example is finished for eight months in Port Wine pipes from Porto Cruz, a very popular Port producer. The resulting malt is drier on the nose and palate than the Sherry Cask, with cocoa and cedar notes. Subtle on the palate with a light toffee and butterscotch finish. No perceptible smoke or peat. Very well balanced and smooth.

Lost Distillery Company – Lossit – Loch & Key Society Special Cask Series

The Lost Distillery Company believes “it is a tragedy that over one hundred Scotch Whisky distilleries have been permanently closed during the last century.” The Lost Distillery Company has breathed life back into many of these distilleries, by painstakingly researching all of the important elements that made a distillery unique and then taking their research to heart by producing archival bottles of these magnificent ghosts.

One such “ghost” is Lossit, a small, farm-distillery founded in 1817 by Malcolm McNeill in the Islay distillery at Lossit Kennels, near Port Askaig. In its earliest years, Lossit was the biggest producer of whisky on Islay until they closed in 1867. Lossit used either ex-sherry, or pure oak casks. These sherry casks, infused sweet, zesty fruit flavors into the aging spirit. Fragrant peaty notes fused with floral notes from the bere barley. They sourced water from Loch Lossit.

This series of malts was produced especially for the Loch & Key Society and had a number of limited bottle expressions, all based on the standard cask finished Lossit. I did not get to taste the standard bottling, but reliable tasting notes suggest: A nose of sherry and dried fruits with strong peat, smoke and brine. Smoky and peaty on the palate with fruity sweetness and spiciness on the finish. Good mid-palate weight and a long, smooth finish. Well-balanced.

The special cask finishes that were tasted, are as follows:

Ribera Del Duero Cask Finish This example is finished in the red wine casks of Ribera Del Duero from Spain. The resulting malt is heavily peated with campfire and iodine notes. Slightly sweet with red fruit elements in the nose and light cherry fruit on the palate. Well-balanced.

Port Cask Finish This example is finished in Port Wine pipes. The resulting malt has pronounced chocolate and marzipan notes. Campfire and peat on the finish. Smooth and very well-balanced.

Pedro Ximenes Sherry Cask Finish This example is finished in PX Sherry casks. The resulting malt is wonderfully rich, crème brûlée with wisps of campfire smoke and peat on the finish. Well-balanced and smooth.

Rum Cask Finish This example is finished in Rum casks. The resulting malt is not as sweet as either the Port or PX Sherry Cask finishes, with no campfire and peat on the aftertaste. Still smooth and well-balanced. Sweet mid-palate with vanilla and allspice.

This single malt is produced on the Isle of Mull by Tobermory. It is a 12 year-old Whisky that is heavily peated and aged in wine barrels previously used for the aging of Hermitage wine (Northern Rhone Valley – France).

The character, as you would expect is all peat, but there are undercurrents of sea air and iodine that clearly underscore the influence of island nativity. On the palate, soft elements of berry fruit with vanilla and spice combine with a subtle sweetness that makes the malt quite charming. The malt is cask strength, but is neither hot, nor rough.

Unfortunately, given the nature of these bottles, availability is limited. I found mine at Julio’s in Westborough, MA.

Surveys have indicated that over 80% of wines and spirits are purchased because of the label. The Australians created an entire market of wines with cute and / or provocative labels and sold millions of cases in the process.

Well, even the strongest may falter, which was the case when I found Douglas Laing and Co.’s Timorous Beastie. How could I resist with such a cute little mascot on the label? Turns out that while the label piqued my interest, the whisky inside is quite good!

The Timorous Beastie is a vatted malt, presumably a blend of some very fine Scotch: Dalmore, Glengoyne, and Glen Garioch, which is non cold-filtered and bottled at almost 50% alcohol by volume.

Initially spicy on the palate with floral and vanilla notes on the finish. A bit of heat from the alcohol, but overall a smooth and well-balanced dram. There is a lush mouth-feel to the spirit which adds a distinct seductive character.

The name of the Whisky pays homage to Robbie Burns’ timid, little field mouse from his famous poem, “To a Mouse.”

Infinitely drinkable and definitely worth pondering!

Slainte!

Last week I posted about the Shackleton Scotch Malt Whisky, produced as the third iteration in celebration of the 1907 Antarctic Voyage by Ernest Shackleton.

Always the inquisitive one, I went on a search for any of the previous bottles and after scouring the Internet, I found a bottle of the second iteration… the “Journey.”

The Journey is another vatted malt, blended more closely to the actual recipe for the 1907 Whisky. Like the original blend, according to some sources, the Journey is impactful – full-bodied but smooth with layers of complex flavors – vanilla, allspice, char and lemongrass. A very long finish leaves a smile on one’s face.

The only problem? The Journey is all but gone and unlike the most recent Shackleton bottling, it is not cheap.

I found my bottle at The Whisky Exchange, which can legally ship to MA…

Certainly worthy of consideration if you enjoy rare malts…

Slainte!

I’m one of those guys… I firmly believe that blended whisky is perfectly fine and in many cases, is superior (cue Chivas Royal Salute) to some single malts. I especially enjoy vatted malts, which are blends of malt whisky without the addition of grain alcohol. Johnny Walker Green Label and Sheep Dip are two prominent vatted malts, as is the ubiquitous Monkey Shoulder, which is referred to as a “triple-Spey,” being a blend of three Speyside malts.

The Shackleton is a blend of over 20 malts without any grain alcohol, making it a vatted malt. This is the third iteration of the whisky, which pays homage to Ernest Shackleton, the famous polar explorer and adventurer. The whisky is presumably a recreation of the original whisky that Shackleton brought with him on the 1907 voyage of the Nimrod, of which three cases were found frozen in the ice beneath Shackleton’s abandoned base camp in 2007.

The whisky is extraordinarily delicate and complex with hints of honey, vanilla, dried fruit, and wild flowers. On the palate, the dram is smooth with a creamy character. Well-balanced with a kiss of peat, the finish is soft and a bit demure.

The real surprise is the price, retailing for $34.99 in the Boston market. This may supplant Monkey Shoulder for my go-to value in vatted malt.

Availability is good, but it won’t last forever at that price.

Slainte!

Grappa… Sometimes just the mention of this spirit brings about the strangest reactions… Most involve exclamations about “jet fuel” and “blindness.” My experience has been that people either love or hate grappa, there is little in between. However, like so many things, people’s real knowledge of grappa, or lack thereof leads to missed opportunities.

Growing up in an Italian household with parents who were children of the Great Depression, we wasted nothing. Now, we weren’t slaughtering our own livestock or anything like that, but my Grandfather did what every self-respecting Italian of his generation did… he made “second wine,” and grappa.

Grappa is a truly Italian product, although every country that produces wine has their version of it (Turkish Raki, for instance). Quite simply, Grappa is brandy, specifically, pomace brandy. Pomace is the collection of material left over once a wine maker presses the contents of their primary fermenting vat. The material at the bottom of the press bears a striking resemblance to a cheesecake and is loaded with all kinds of stuff. Remember this comment as we delve into the method of production for grappa…

With the formation of the European Union, many products have gained protected status – grappa being one of them. As a protected product, there are very strict criteria that define exactly what can and cannot be called “grappa.”

• First criteria – Grappa must be produced in Italy, or the Swiss Italy, or San Marino.
• Second criteria – Grappa can only be produced from pomace (unlike traditional brandy, which is distilled from pure wine).
• Third criteria – Grappa can only be produced from distillation that occurs on the pomace without the addition of water.

The third criteria is what dictates the production method for grappa, which is essentially a steam-distillation process. Traditional distillation involves the direct heating of the fermented agent to vaporize, condense and concentrate alcohol. If this method were applied to pomace, the result would be a cooked, burned mass of post-fermentation materials, with no usable by-product. With steam distillation, steam passes through the fermented material, carrying with it the essential elements that are then condensed as a highly-rarified spirit. The drawback to steam distillation is that larger amounts of methanol are extracted, which is extremely poisonous. This is one reason why homemade grappa earned a reputation for blinding and even killing imbibers. This is also the reason why the Italian government has sought strict laws around who can and cannot make grappa for resale.

Most grappa are clear, signifying that they are not aged in oak, like traditional brandy. The primary reason for this is that the spirit is known for having very subtle aromas and flavors that would otherwise be masked by the presence of wood.

More recently, some producers are experimenting with wood aging, which does produce a grappa with a pronounced hue and a different flavor profile more like brandy.

The production of grappa has definitely benefited by improvements in technology. Early examples of grappa clearly earned their designation as “jet fuel,” with the spirit having a rough, alcoholic presence. As the application of a more refined distillation process was used, the end product became much smoother and more alluring. The introduction of pressurization during the distillation process has allowed for a lower temperature extraction that preserves much more of the delicacy of the essential elements.

Like many things in the wine and spirit world there are many more grappa available today than were in the market only a few years ago. I have been actively seeking out grappa and can happily report on some of my favorites:

Moletto Grappa di Barbera

Mazzetti Altavilla Grappa di Barbera

Jacopo di Poli – Po di Poli – (Grappa from Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc)

Jacopo di Poli – Sarpa di Poli – (Grappa from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)

Jacopo di Poli – Grappa da Vinacce di Sassicaia

Marolo – Grappa di Moscato

Marolo – Grappa di Brunello di Montalcino

Marolo – Grappa di Barolo

G. Bertagnolli – Grappa di Amarone

G. Bertagnolli – Grappa di Teroldego

Nonino – Il Merlot di Grappa

Nonino – Il Moscato di Grappa

Nonino – Il Chardonnay di Grappa

I heartily recommend picking up one of the above grappa and sampling a small glass after a nice meal as the perfect digestif in the true Italian tradition. If you are an aficionado of fine spirits, you will not be disappointed.

Cheers!

As a follow-up to my posting about our recent Scotch Whisky tasting, I thought I should let people in on a little local shop who seems to have an endless selection of whisk(e)y.

When we first moved to this neck of the woods, I made the rounds of all the local wine and spirit shops. I found a handful that I really liked and unfortunately, many that I felt were just not up to snuff. That was 15 years ago. I have since visited a few of the new shops that have opened, as well as a few of the original shops. My visits usually turn out to be one of two types – either very brief or fairly lengthy, the latter being a sign of good things to come.

Well, recently I stopped back at Provo Liquors in Norfolk, MA and ended up spending the better part of an hour chatting with the amiable and ever helpful owner, Bruno Formato. Hot off of my Scotch Whisky tasting, I was in search of a few special bottles and happily Bruno had them in stock. One he did not, but he thought he would be getting it soon.

I had to compliment Bruno because his selection and assortment of whisk(e)y was nothing short of amazing. The only other store that I’ve been in recently that has a more exhaustive selection is Julio’s in Westboro. Provo is less than 10 minutes from my house. Julio’s is about 35 minutes… You know where I will run to first the next time I am in search of some arcane whisk(e)y.

Bruno and I also chatted about our very consistent philosophy about wine making and we found ourselves agreeing on the high value of most European wines, especially those from Spain and Portugal. We’re both Italians that grew up with wine on the table at almost every meal. For us, wine is not an adjunct to the meal, it is essential part of the meal, like another food. We agreed that the new term being coined in the industry, “cocktail wines,” is an unfortunate reflection of how most Americans view wine.

Bruno also graciously shared a plate of his home made prosciutto – wow, was it delicious! Just the right amount of salt with a nice subtle, yet complex flavor profile.

So, I urge you, if you are in the area, or want to make the trip, to drop by Provo Liquor on Dedham Street in Norfolk, MA. Make sure you tell Bruno that I sent you over!

And, for other great places to shop check out my web site at: http://www.musingsonthevine.com/tips_shop.shtml

Cheers!