Italian whites get a bad rap… and why not? I begin to lose track of the names of the insipid multitude of Pinot Grigio and Soave that seem to splash over the gunwale like so many waves in the sea… Yes, yes, there are the occasional standout – Alois Lageder, Inama, Pieropan, Castellani are a few that come to mind… but generally speaking my heart lies with the red wines of my ancestors.

And then an Italian white shows up that really grabs my attention, shakes my tree so to speak and reminds me of just how perfect Italian white wine can be… The Kellerei-Cantina Andrian Pinot Bianco is just such a wine –Bright, fruity with minerality, complexity and beauty – the wine literally tastes like sunshine!

The Andriano wine making cooperative is the oldest in the southern Tyrol, and was founded in 1893. Nestled in northeast Italy, near the Alps, this part of the Adige Valley rests under the protection of mount Gantkofel, which holds the harshest weather at bay. The winding Adige River flows to the south and provides a moderating effect on the undulating hillside vineyards. Located on the gently sloping eastern side of Andriano, and at an altitude of between 1,800 to 2,000 feet above sea-level, many late-ripening varieties of grapes enjoy an especially large amount of sunshine. Despite hot summer days, the grapes of Andriano benefit from a strong diurnal climate with cool evenings that ensure that the grapes have elevated acidity, as well as intense freshness and fruitiness.

My tasting note:

Bright, citrusy nose with mineral and melon hints. Light-bodied with moderate acidity – good balance. Lemony palate with apple, pear and apricot notes. Moderate length with a crisp, refreshing finish – clean. Drinking well now – not for aging.

At an average bottle price of $14.99 before the discount, this wine is a respectable value.

Cheers!

I try to stay away from controversial subjects… Nothing ruins a good glass of wine faster than unpopular sentiment.

So it is with reluctance that I mention the topic of global warming. I don’t actually believe in those prognosticators of doom and gloom who say that the Earth is merrily on its way to becoming a spinning ball of arid dust… Maybe I should, but the data feels somewhat disingenuous. Now, what does this have to do with wine?

Well, recent warming trends in Europe have dramatically changed the quality and style of several wines… Pinot Noir is now growing at ripeness levels in the south of England to actually cause a spike in sparkling wine production there – watch out Champagne! And, Cabernet Franc is growing well enough in the Loire to actually produce red wines of uncharacteristic fruitiness…

It used to be that most vintages of Loire-based Cabernet Franc tasted more like bell peppers and grape stems than anything else. I liked the wines in great vintages and found them to be eclectic, like Pinot Noir from the Alsace, but I can’t say I really loved them.

As I said, though, recent vintages are producing a lusher, more fruit forward version of Cabernet Franc and the Château du Hureau is a perfect example. Château du Hureau is located in the small town of Dampierre sur Loire, which is about four miles east of Saumur. The name of the Château, hureau means old, solitary boar, which is represented on the weathervane topping the octagonal tower looming large over the property, an impressive estate carved out of the limestone cliffs sometime in the 13^th century. There are 17 hectares (approximately 42 acres) arrayed in 21 separate vineyard plots that are spread around the towns of Dampierre Sur Loire, Souzay, Champigny and Saumur and they are all planted with Cabernet Franc. The commonality among the vineyards and where this wine derives its name, Tuffe is a soft, chalky limestone from the Cretaceous period that underlies the soil.

A definite crowd pleaser, this wine showcases the loveliness of Cabernet Franc grown under the correct conditions…

My tasting note:

Fruity nose with red berry, chalk and wildflower hints – very pretty. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and firm tannin – good balance. Dark fruit core with sour cherry, tea leaf and wet stone notes. Moderate length with a tight finish. Drinking well and should improve with another 2 to 3 years in bottle.

At an average bottle price of $15.99 before the discount, this wine is a respectable value.

Cheers!

Domaine Du Père Caboche is a well-respected producer of Châteauneuf du Pape going back to 1777, when the lineage of the current owners, the Boisson family married into then current owners, the Chambellan family. From that point forward, the tradition of vine growing and wine making has been passed from one generation to another in an unbroken family tradition.

The name caboche comes from the French colloquial term for the nail used to secure a horseshoe to the bottom of a horse’s hoof. The original profession of the Boisson family was that of blacksmith, a tradition that ended with the father of the current head of the winery.

The family produces three wines : Châteauneuf du Pape, Côtes du Rhone and Vin de Pays de Vaucluse. The CDP wines, of which there are several bottlings, are produced from grapes harvested from impressive vineyards, some of which encompass the very famous Le Crau vineyard. All of the wines are predominantly Grenache-based. The Côtes du Rhone wines are also predominantly Grenache-based. All of which contributes to the impressiveness of the Vin de Pays offering.

The Vin de Pays de Vaucluse is, as you would expect dominated by Grenache in the blend, consisting of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Caladoc and 5% Marselan. The wine is produced in a traditional manner with light crushing of the fruit and constant temperature control throughout the process, preserving the freshness of the fruit. Maceration extends to 10 days, which contributes to the depth of color. The wine is then finished in large oak cooperage for 3 to 6 months. Tasting notes on the winery web site tout the wine’s fruity character and the fact that the wine should be consumed “very young.”

I have to agree and at such an outrageously cheap price, the wine rivals the previously reviewed Vega Sindoa as house wine for the summer at Chez Musings…

My tasting note:

Juicy, fruity nose with fresh cherry, red currant and wild flower hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and supple tannin – good balance. Youthful palate with cherry, blackberry, anise and fresh mint notes – infinitely quaffable. Moderate length – seductive and easy drinking. Not for aging – meant for fun!

At an average bottle price of $7.99 before the discount, this wine is a superb value.

Cheers!

Northwest Spain – Galicia… Green Spain as some folk call it… Unlike the central and southern portions of Spain, where the climate varies from Mediterranean to arid, desert-like conditions, Galicia is very wet, being heavily influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. The rainfall, nearly 50 inches a year combined with over 2000 hours of sunshine produces a humid, rainforest-like environment that is quite verdant, hence the nickname, Green Spain.

There are five Denominación de Origen (DO) in Galicia: Monterrei, Rías Baixas, Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro and Valdeorras. The area is largely isolated from the rest of Spain, which accounts for the fact that stylistically, the wines of Galicia have more in common with Portugal than the rest of Spain.

The most popular and well-known DO in Galicia is Rías Baixas and produces amazing white wine from the indigenous Albariño grape. Overall, 90% of the wine produced in Rías Baixas is made from the Albariño grape. The vineyard soils of the region are granite based and well situated for the damp maritime climate of the area. While the rest of Galicia enjoys a reputation for high grape yields, Rías Baixas keeps the yield of its Albariño plantings low in order to produce concentrated fruity and fragrant wine. Known for fantastically perfumed noses, Albariño from Rías Baixas is best enjoyed young, slightly chilled on a hot summer’s day.

Marqués de Cáceres is known for producing the full range of Rioja wines. The Deusa Nai is their newest wine and it falls well outside of their usual Ebro Valley homeland. The name means “Mother Goddess,” or one who protects the earth’s fertility. The initial production is relatively small, only 6,600 cases, but the limited production has put a focus on quality. The Deusa Nai is textbook Albarino with a lush, perfumed nose, but the wine possesses a depth and elegance, which is a bit uncharacteristic of the variety and the region. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised, given the wineries track record for outstanding Rioja wine – that and the fact that globe-trotting wine Guru Michel Roland is their consultant…

My tasting note:

Lovely, perfumed nose with tropical melon, floral and wet stone hints. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity – good balance. Tart, lemony palate with apple, pear and apricot notes. Surprisingly good depth. Moderate length – crisp and refreshing . Drinking well now – not for aging.

At an average bottle price of $13.99 before the discount, this wine is a very respectable value.

Cheers!

The Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) called Madiran is in the southwest part of France in Gascony and is a red wine-only AOC dominated by the Tannat grape. The Tannat grape is known for prodigious levels of tannin and the wines produced typically require several years before they become enjoyable.

Domaine Berthoumieu is a prominent family producer in Madiran and the Cuvée Haute Tradition is comprised of a blend of 55% Tannat, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Fer-Servadou, the last grape being used largely to contribute a perfumed aroma to the wines.

This wine is not for the faint of heart, or for those who abhor tannin. Be prepared to scrape your tongue after just one glass, because this wine is thick. Definitely built for consumption with hearty food – foie gras comes to mind with its rich, fatty consistency, or a nice, well-marbled sirloin or rib eye… Throw together a nice Cognac cream sauce with caramelized shallots and we’re talking heaven…

My tasting note:

Thick, black cherry nose – deep and dark with rose attar, violet and black currant hints. Full-bodied with firm acidity and firm, dry tannin – good balance. Very tightly wound with sour, tart cherry, pomegranate and roasted game notes – intense and brooding. Moderate length with a closed, muted finish. Needs time to open up, perhaps another 3 to 5 years in bottle, maybe more…

At an average bottle price of $14.99 before the discount, this wine is a very respectable value.

Cheers!

The Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) of Aglianico del Vulture is nestled around the most prominent and defining fixture of this extremely southern Italian wine region – Mount Vulture. The term vulture in Italian translates to the English word vulture, and the meaning tends to be more broadly associated with any predatory scavengers, which vultures generally are. The DOC is part of the larger Basilicata region and it is the only area within larger whole that actually produces quality wine.

The history of the region, like most of Italy is about conquest, foreign settlement, annexation, usurpation, upheaval and eventual serenity. The original name for the region was Lucania, which was derived from the very first settlers in the area – the Lucanians. The term Lucania is itself derived from the Latin word for forest, lucus, which is apropos, as the region once possessed dense forests. The Greeks arrived in the 7^th Century BC and established several cities and developed a rudimentary agricultural and commercial trading base.

It was in fact the Greeks who planted the very grape from which this wine is made – Aglianico. The name Aglianico is believed to be a bastardization of the term Hellenic, or Greek, by native Italian peoples. No other native grapes grow in the region.

The Romans eventually arrived in the region in about the 3^rd Century BC and began a program of deforestation to provide wood for building other colonial cities and the large naval fleet required for further conquest. For hundreds of years the forests were plundered and eventually the land was entirely denuded of any trees. This is not unlike the story of central Spain…

The modern name for the region, Basilicata was given by the Byzantines. Further invasions and the appearance of marauding Saracen pirates eventually forced most of the population into the hills, where agriculture was generally poor, unless you are a grape grower. Grapes thrive where most crops fail and on the rich volcanic soil of Mount Vulture, the Aglianico flourished.

While the region only produces a single DOC wine, from a single grape, the quality of the wine is generally noteworthy, rivaling many of the great wines of northern Italy.

The Bisceglia is a perennial favorite of mine, affordable and with all the wonderful characteristics of classic Aglianico. The wine is fruity, but edgy with an unmistakable dusty stoniness from the calcareous and volcanic clay-loam soil. The grapes are harvested from a single, 21 acre vineyard, Toppo di Viola, which is at approximately 1,250 feet above sea level. The yields in the vineyard are average at 2.8 tons/acre and the vines were originally planted in 2004. The must sees stainless steel fermentation over two weeks at a relatively low temperature (70 °F), which preserves the fresh, vibrant flavors of the fruit. The wine then undergoes full Malolactic fermentation as it ages for another year in stainless steel tanks.

The overall production runs to approximately 100,000 bottles, but careful winemaking and viticultural pedigree suggests a wine of much smaller production levels. Clearly a testament to the power of volcanic soil and sparse hillsides.

My tasting note:

Fruity nose with bright, cherry, violets and lots of wet stone and chalk hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity and moderate tannin – good balance. Dark fruit palate with sour cherry, tar and anise notes – youthful. Moderate length with a smooth, layered finish – lightly spicy and dusty. Drinking well now – not for aging.

At an average bottle price of $13.99 before the discount, this wine is a very respectable value.

Cheers!