Italian whites get a bad rap… and why not? I begin to lose track of the names of the insipid multitude of Pinot Grigio and Soave that seem to splash over the gunwale like so many waves in the sea… Yes, yes, there are the occasional standout – Alois Lageder, Inama, Pieropan, Castellani are a few that come to mind… but generally speaking my heart lies with the red wines of my ancestors.
And then an Italian white shows up that really grabs my attention, shakes my tree so to speak and reminds me of just how perfect Italian white wine can be… The Kellerei-Cantina Andrian Pinot Bianco is just such a wine –Bright, fruity with minerality, complexity and beauty – the wine literally tastes like sunshine!
The Andriano wine making cooperative is the oldest in the southern Tyrol, and was founded in 1893. Nestled in northeast Italy, near the Alps, this part of the Adige Valley rests under the protection of mount Gantkofel, which holds the harshest weather at bay. The winding Adige River flows to the south and provides a moderating effect on the undulating hillside vineyards. Located on the gently sloping eastern side of Andriano, and at an altitude of between 1,800 to 2,000 feet above sea-level, many late-ripening varieties of grapes enjoy an especially large amount of sunshine. Despite hot summer days, the grapes of Andriano benefit from a strong diurnal climate with cool evenings that ensure that the grapes have elevated acidity, as well as intense freshness and fruitiness.
My tasting note:
Bright, citrusy nose with mineral and melon hints. Light-bodied with moderate acidity – good balance. Lemony palate with apple, pear and apricot notes. Moderate length with a crisp, refreshing finish – clean. Drinking well now – not for aging.
At an average bottle price of $14.99 before the discount, this wine is a respectable value.