Category Archives: Restaurants

Beckmen Vineyards Winemaker Dinner

16 Sunday Feb 2020

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants, Wine Events, Wines

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I recently had the pleasure of enjoying a wonderful wine dinner at Legal Sea Foods, Park Square. The dinner was memorable for many reasons. First, I was able to reconnect with an old friend, who is one of the key influencers of my wine journey, Sandy Block, MW. Second, I was able to taste some great wines from Santa Inez, from a west coast winery that does it right and is hard to find on this side of the map. And lastly, I was able to experience the amazing Food and Beverage program at Legal Seafoods and meet our absolutely gracious and amazing host, Bryn Burke.

Sandy Block, MW is an icon, not only in the Boston area, but in the world of wine. I have been remarkably fortunate to have met some of this area’s wine luminaries over the years and more importantly, I have had the opportunity to taste and discuss wine with them, at length. The experience has been immeasurably important to my personal development as a wine educator. Enjoying this evening with Sandy was truly something special. Sandy is the consummate gentleman. Soft spoken, laid back and completely unassuming, making you feel right at home. His keen observations and deep knowledge provide the proper balance between sybaritic enjoyment and educational awareness.

If I look at the program that Sandy has created at Legal Seafoods, it is a model of exactly how the hospitality industry, specifically restaurants should approach wine (and spirits). First, concentrate on staff education. It is proven that a restaurant will sell more wine when the staff are properly educated and can provide trusted input towards a patron’s wine choices. Legal Seafoods invest significant effort into training staff so that they know and understand wine as an integral part of the dining experience. Second, create a wine list that is interesting with great value, appealing to a wide range of diners from novice to expert. A wine list should have enough diversity, with the usual “suspects,” peppered with eclectic bottles from far-flung regions to give choice without being overwhelming. Lastly, offering fun wine dinner experiences is critical to program success. Such dinners allow consumers contact with the wine makers without having to travel to far-away regions, which for wine enthusiasts is like meeting their favorite Hollywood movie stars. Wine dinners also provide a vehicle whereby the importance of wine and food pairing is showcased.

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The dinner in question was the Beckmen Vineyards Winemaker Dinner, with Jeff Beckmen, the current proprietor. This was the first time attending a Legal Sea Foods wine dinner and I have to say, the experience was truly amazing. Upon arrival, we were ushered downstairs into the basement dining area and offered as a greeting wine, a glass of the Beckmen Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. I will preface my remarks by saying that it is very rare that I find California Sauvignon Blanc that is true to type, or very interesting. The Beckmen was a delightful surprise. The wine had a perfumed nose of grapefruit and fresh mown grass with hints of honeysuckle and orange blossom – quite attractive. The palate was well-balanced with crisp acidity and clean, refreshing aftertaste. More grapefruit on the palate with notes of citrus and papaya. Showing beautifully, the wine was a perfect way to kick off the evening!

The dinner consisted of six courses, each paired with on or more Beckman wines. Once we were seated, our taste buds were tantalized by a mix of Hors D’oeuvres, including Baby Octopus Pintxo, Scallop Crudo, and Crabmeat-stuffed Shrimp was served. A wonderful mélange of flavors and textures that made an ideal accompaniment to the Beckmen Sauvignon Blanc.

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The first entrée was a Spinach-wrapped Ora King Salmon with Wild Rice and Tarragon Beurre Rouge. Paired with the Salmon was the 2017 Beckmen Cuvee le Bec, a charming, fruit-forward blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Counois. One doesn’t instinctively think of pairing red with fish, but I was shown early in my career that medium-bodied, fruit-forward reds can pair well with certain fish, Salmon being one. The wine was all fruit in the nose with loads of black cherry and red currant. Well-balanced with moderate acidity and firm, well integrated tannin. A lush palate with more cherry, resolving with a spicy, herbaceous finish. Truly charming and a perfect mate to the fleshy, earthy tones of the Salmon and Tarragon. Heaven and we were only at the first stop of the journey.

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Next up was a Toasted Sesame-Crusted Tuna and Nori Roll, with Fermented Kelp and Sesame Chili Vinaigrette, paired with the 2017 Beckmen Grenache. Another red wine with fish paring that worked perfectly because of the savory flavors found in the sesame and fermented kelp. The chili tang created magical synergy with the spicy-sweet quality of the Grenache. The nose of the wine was somewhat tight with bright, red fruits and a very light floral perfume of violets. Well-balanced with a dark fruit core, moderate acid and firm, intense tannin – Massive is the word that comes to mind. A long, almost sweet aftertaste softened the blow of the tannin. Ordinarily, pairing a wine with this tannic strength with fish is a recipe for disaster, but in this case, the flavors matched very well and created a complementary blend of sweet and savory. Well done!

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Beckmen-Grenache

The main course was a Panko-Crusted Lamb Chop with Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Sautéed Provençal Vegetables, paired with two Beckmen wines, both from Purisima Mountain and both Syrah – one, the 2014 and the other, the 2017. If the food and wine to this point were truly amazing, the perfectly cooked lamb chop was absolutely sublime. The perfect degree of doneness showcased the tender, succulent nature of the meat. Mild without any gaminess, the flavor of the crust wove delicate streams of earthy, nutty goodness through the dish.

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The two wines could not have been any more different, despite coming from the same vineyard and following a similar wine-making regimen. The two wines highlighted the importance of climate in this part of California, which, according to the pioneer of this region, Richard Sanford, are the reasons why California Central Coast wines are, and I second his opinion, the best the state as to offer. The 2014 Beckmen was a masterpiece. Dark fruit on the nose, earthy with concentrated black cherry and tar hints, mixed with delicate cedar and spice. Well-balanced with moderate acidity and firm, well-integrated tannin. Dark fruit with chocolate and cocoa dust on the palate. Tight finish. This wine is a sleeping monster, largely due to heavily reduced yields (only 80% of normal) as a result of droughts during the spring and growing season.

The 2017 Beckmen showed similar lineage, but the wine was much more overtly expressive. A jammy fruit-driven nose with allspice and blackberry jam hints leads the way. Good balance, not as well integrated as the 2014. Bright and fruity on the palate – ripe berries and just a hint of eucalyptus. My imperfect prediction is that the 2017 is not the massive wine that is the 2014, and as a result may not age as long or as gracefully. Jeff Beckmen, a man who obviously has much more experience with aging his wines, politely disagrees and sees as much potential in the 2017 as was shown on the 2014. It matters not – the wine and food pairing was again, heavenly!

We next had a wonderful cheese course of Brillat-Savarin, Montrachet and Morbier, with Mission Figs, Jamon Serrano and Toasted Almonds, paired with the 2016 Beckmen Cabernet Sauvignon. The cheese was perfectly ripe and was the ideal way of finishing the meal. Anything sweeter would have pushed the limit on one’s appetite.

Beckmen-Dessert

The principle vineyards owned by Beckmen are in the western portion of the region in what is called the Ballard Canyon, where the mountain valley vineyards benefit from the broad diurnal pattern of Santa Ynez climate. The soil, highly limestone and clay, also shares many similarities to the Rhone Valley, where the varieties of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Counois are made into historically significant wines. It may be that Ballard Canyon will share in some of this notoriety that the Rhone Valley enjoys. I suspect that the positive press received by Beckmen wines hints as such.

The Cabernet grapes that went into the 2016 were NOT from Ballard Canyon… Not surprised because the climate that grows great Rhone varietals is NOT the climate that grows great Cabernet. This wine is sourced from grapes further east in Los Olivos, another favorite region that I tripped over nearly 20 years ago!

The 2016 shows an earthy nose with menthol, eucalyptus, tobacco leaf and brambles. Cherry aromas wove within the “terroir-like” bouquet and gave the wine a lightly fruity character. Well-balanced with moderate acidity and well-integrated tannin creates a lush mid-palate loaded with bright red cherry and red currant. I bought several bottles of the wine because I want to see how it evolves with some bottle age – you should too!

I can’t offer any higher recommendation for the Legal Sea Foods wine dinner series than to insist that you find a way to attend a dinner soon. The dinners are offered at both the Park Square and Long Wharf Waterfront locations – if you have not done so, visit https://www.legalseafoods.com/ and sign up for their special events newsletter. As someone who has been enjoying fine wine and food for over thirty-five years, the Legal Sea Food wine dinners are a throwback to the golden age of fine wine and food appreciation mid-1980’s Boston!

Also, I will be conducting an extensive wine tasting of Beckmen Vineyards wines – some from the wine dinner and others from the library of Jeff and his family. I am working out sourcing as I type. Follow me at: https://www.facebook.com/pg/MusingsontheVine/events/?ref=page_internal, my Facebook events page for more details and sign up details when the event becomes reality. Expect a June timeframe if all goes well.

— Cheers!

Brasserie Jo… Bon jour, mon ami…

07 Sunday Oct 2018

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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I have fortunately, or unfortunately, been at many a great restaurant’s final meal… Colorado Public Library, Fantasia’s, Walter’s, the Pillar House, Maison Robert and Cafe Budapest… great institutes of gastronomy that left an indelible stain on my tablecloth of fine dining.

This weekend was the final hurrah of Brasserie Jo, the 20+ year-old French Bistro at the Colonnade Hotel in Boston’s Back Bay. A long time fixture for theatre-goers and revelers, Brasserie Jo has been witness to much of Boston’s culinary history.

Distinctive for their embrace of the real Parisian experience, for the better part of a decade, Brasserie Jo satisfied Francophile taste in style.

While bittersweet, this “last supper” was replete with all the trappings that made Brasserie Jo a celebration of life.

One should take away a lesson… all good things come to an end, but the remembrance of those special moments are what preserve a life well-lived…

Merci pour tous ces merveilleux souvenirs!

An Evening with Chef Rosario

28 Friday Jul 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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BertuccisLogo

I think I visited Bertucci’s for the first time back in 1983. I was still in school and living in a sublet that Summer and the Davis Square outpost was a regular haunt, given its delicious brick oven pizza and basement bocce courts. After college, my tastes turned more towards finer cuisine, but I always found myself returning to Bertucci’s. Something about the pizza and the simplicity of the other dishes made it easy and gratifying. There was a welcoming, homey feel and a genuine, authenticity to the food that reminded me of home.

Fast forward 30+ years and I am still a regular at Bertucci’s, more so now because of the welcoming family atmosphere and convenience of their many locations. One might initially think that Bertucci’s is just another Olive Garden – family-friendly Italian food without soul or passion – non-distinctive and guaranteed not to offend. Well, you would be wrong.

A recent evening spent with the Chef Rosario Del Nero, Vice President of Culinary – Executive Chef at Bertucci’s was both eye-opening, as well as a validation that Bertucci’s truly has soul and passion when it comes to Italian food.

The evening began several weeks before, when Ryan, the Manager at the Attleboro Bertucci’s told us that the customer feedback forms that we diligently enter after each meal are read by all the management in the company, including Chef Rosario. Ryan indicated that if we wanted to see some of our old favorites brought back, then we should tag Chef Rosario in our comments and let him know about our nostalgic hunger pangs.

Well, my better half did exactly that, explaining our long-time support of Bertucci’s and our desire to see our favorite pasta dish, Rigatoni ala Bertucci, brought back to the fold. Lo and behold, Chef Rosario responded and invited us to be his guest at a nearby Bertucci’s to prepare the dish with our support. So, we set a date and eagerly waited for the evening to arrive.

And the visit was magical. Not only did we get to have an evening with an incredibly passionate and genuine Renaissance man, but the welcoming support of the staff at the Attleboro Bertucci’s had us feeling like we had just stopped by our Nonna’s for a quick bite.

For those who don’t realize it, the food at Bertucci’s is entirely homemade. Nothing is pre-prepared, so the food is as fresh as possible every day. We were welcomed with a mouth-watering assortment of antipasti, as well as a dish of homemade meatballs in marinara sauce. The meatballs are a returning signature to the menu and represent a key element of Chef Rosario’s approach to food – freshness, authenticity and passion. And they did not disappoint – moist and flavorful with just the right blend of spice, prepared by Suzette, an Area Director who oversees as many as seven restaurants. That is true passion.

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BertuccisAntipasti

As we noshed, Chef Rosario shared a bit of his history and that of Bertucci’s. Chef’s anecdotes about his home town in Lombardy and the remarkable Bitto Storico cheese produced there were captivating. We learned that Bitto Storico is a cow and goat milk cheese produced in the Valtellina valley of Lombardy by means of traditional methods promoted by Slow Food. The cheese is only produced in Summer, when the cows and goats can free-range in the high alpine meadows. The resulting cheese, according to Chef Rosario is one of the most amazing cheeses of Italy, having the ability to age for more than 25 years. You know what I am going to look for the next time I visit Wasik’s in Wellesley!

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After our antipasti, Chef Rosario donned his white apron to prepare the dish that brought us together in the first place – Rigatoni ala Bertucci. The dish was on the menu back in the 1990’s, but was ultimately removed, largely due to the risks in making the signature Vodka Cream Sauce. It had been one of our favorites and for good reason – it is truly amazing – simple, fresh with a perfect balance of ingredients. And, no, I am not going to divulge the recipe, as simple as it is… you can visit the Attleboro Bertucci’s and see if Ryan, Hillary and crew will duplicate it for you…

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We shared more stories over dessert and before we knew it, the evening was at an end. We made many new friends and feel an even deeper connection to Bertucci’s. While Bertucci’s is obviously a profit-making business, it is also a set of restaurants whose purpose is to promote the wonderful importance of Italian food and the warmth and vibrancy of Italian culture. Chef Rosario is the embodiment of this and through his example, ensures that every visit to Bertucci’s is amazing.

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To top it off, our son even got to make his own meatball pizza, his favorite, courtesy of the same Area Manager who made the meatballs earlier in the day.

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Our thanks to Chef Rosario and all the staff at the Attleboro Bertucci’s for making our visit truly memorable.

Buon Apetito!

Connie’s Rustic Kitchen & Tavern, Wrentham

25 Tuesday Jul 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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ConniesSign

Finally got in to try a brand new (as of July 5th) Wrentham restaurant – Connie’s Rustic Kitchen and Tavern. Overall, for a brand-new place, we were pleased with what we found.

The accommodations are definitely Tavern-like. A bit worn around the edges, but overall comfortable and homey. It was quiet on the evening that we dined, but I can imagine, it must get fairly energetic with a crowd.

Our server was very sincere and eager to please, albeit a bit young and inexperienced. I am chocking this up to the newness of the restaurant. Our waitress was incredibly accommodating, but needed to check almost all our questions with either the bar, or the kitchen before answering.

Next, the bar. As someone who dives deep on cocktails and wine, I can be overly critical of bar service. I always have a few test drinks that I use to gauge service. In this case, a Negroni was not possible because of a lack of key ingredients – Campari. I was a trifle dismayed that the barkeep failed to recognize the cocktail by name, but he seemed like a nice enough guy that had he the ingredients, he could have rolled a decent cocktail. The wine list is short and simple, with very modest pricing.

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Visiting the link above, brings you to a Facebook page that has some mouth-watering pictures, which are what drew us in. The menu offers gastro-pub cuisine with specials that aim for a notch above. We tried a variety of items – base menu and specials to get a sense of the quality, etc.

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Appetizers were divided. The Fried Calamari was very nice, with a light batter that was not oily and a good quantity of rings and tentacles.

ConniesCaprese

The special Caprese Salad was a disappointment. The tomatoes were under ripe and lacked taste and the mozzarella was rubbery, also without much taste. The drizzle of balsamic was tasty but could not make up for the blandness of the other ingredients. To me, a special should be exactly that – special and probably based on the availability of exceptional ingredients. In this case, the ingredients were lacking.

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Entrees were again divided. The Chicken Involtini was very nice with a seductive wine sauce and a mouth-watering stuffing. The Chicken and Broccoli over pasta was disappointing and bland. The chicken was flavorful, but the sauce was thin and way too garlicky. A little more creaminess and a little less garlic would dramatically improve the dish.

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Only one dessert is offered and it changes weekly. At our visit a huge, homemade ice cream sandwich was on offer. Visually stunning and very tasty. While we were told that the cookies were chocolate chip, we all agreed that the taste suggested the presence of oatmeal… confirmation with the kitchen came back as chocolate chip…

As previously noted, overall, we were pleased and given the newness, need to return to make further inroads. Everything appears promising and despite some missteps during our visit, nothing was so egregious to dissuade us from returning. We love local, so we will be tugging hard for Connie’s to succeed!

Nellie Rose Middleboro, MA

20 Tuesday Jun 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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NellieRoseMenu

For a brief period of time, I called Middleboro, MA home… It was between Jr. High and College. During this time, I found a dentist and an eye doctor, both of which I maintain to this day. Having regular appointments brings me back to Middleboro a few times a year and you guessed it, the visits are usually timed around breakfast. Shocking, I know.

On one such visit, I stopped into a relatively new place (to me, at least), called Nellie Rose (https://www.facebook.com/nellieroserestaurant2/). Located in the space formerly known as the Flatiron Café, the restaurant has ample space for entertaining. On these quick hits, I always opt for counter service, when available. Turns out that the original, sister location is in Whitman, in case that location is more convenient.

When I’m in a new restaurant for breakfast, there are certain go-to test items that I almost always try to order. Coffee, obviously can be a deal breaker. Toast is a good measure of quality, as are any other baked goods that the restaurant claims to make on premise. Corned-beef hash is a critical yardstick, especially if the joint claims to make theirs from scratch. You get the idea…

Well, I’m happy to report that Nellie Rose passed on all accounts! First off, the coffee was great – full-bodied and flavorful without being over-roasted or bitter. A nice added touch – the server placed a small plate with four small pieces of various muffins beside the coffee. Apparently, Nellie Rose make their own muffins and they give each customer a little taste, almost an amuse bouche of muffins… They were great and had I been in a muffin mood, I would have ordered one to go. I ordered the Nellie Rose Favorite – basically two eggs, home fries, hash (homemade) and toast. What more could I ask for? Nothing, really. The hash was clearly homemade and hit the spot – rich and flavorful without being greasy. Home fries were good – crisp and moist. Toast was spot on – they offer raisin bread, which I love and which they lightly buttered. By the way, raisin toast is the perfect accompaniment to corned-beef hash… must be an Irish-thing.

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Overall, not a single complaint.

Service was excellent. Attentive, friendly and fast.

I enjoyed Nellie Rose so much, I’m actually looking for an excuse to go back before my next appointment…

 

Boyd’s Jig and Reel, Knoxville, TN

06 Tuesday Jun 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants, Spirits

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Had the opportunity to check in at a Scotch Malt Whisky Society partner bar, Boyd’s Jig and Reel in Knoxville, TN. While not as imposing as Jack Rose in Washington, DC, Boyd’s still boasts close to 800 different bottles of spirits, most of them of the brown ilk.

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I opted for three, self-created flights. The first, a set of four Bruichladdich 21-year old Whisky, each in a different wood. The lineup was as follows:

Bruichladdich 21

The straight-up 21 is finished in Oloroso Sherry casks and the combination of the wood, with the extended maturation really makes for an intense experience. The spirit is full-bodied and creamy with wisps of smoke and salty brine. An endless finish evolves on the palate with layers of complexity.

Bruichladdich 21 PX

Cuvee 407: PX (Pedro Ximenez Sherry Cask)

This Cuvee 407 has been further matured in rare Jerez butts that for decades held unctuous and ultra-rich sherry, made from the Moorish Pedro Ximenez grape.  Once harvested, the grapes are shriveled to a raisin-like state under the baking sun of Andalucia to concentrate the sugars, resulting in a sweet wine of legendary viscosity and intensity.

For centuries, PX casks have been revered by whisky distillers for the Madeira cake richness they bring to maturing spirit; and our casks, extracted from the Fernando de Castilla Solera, are of the very highest provenance. This Bruichladdich Cuvee 407 is an indulgent, licentious whisky, a whisky for when the air is redolent of old leather, Cuban tobacco and cedarwood. A whisky to lose oneself in – an indulgent dream of a dram.

My favorite of the flight. Rich and sweet with intense butterscotch and coffee notes. The echoing hints of PX were clearly evident and added an interesting dimension to the palate. Endless on the finish with traces of vanilla and smoke.

Bruichladdich 21 Eroica

Cuvee 640: Eroica (Cognac Cask)

Cuvee 640 has been further matured in Limousin oak casks from Aquitaine that for many years contained one of the great eaux de vie. These casks tannins have added new layers of rich complexity to our own elegant, floral Bruichladdich. This is a spirit to give pause, to reflect on. A spirit as much for the mind as for the palate.

This profound, challenging whisky jealously guards its secrets from the uninitiated, but to those with patience and curiosity it reveals layer upon layer of subtle nuance, from Turkish Delight and wild strawberry, to darker notes of dark chocolate orange and espresso. To be enjoyed at the end of a great meal or a great day, alone or with a small cadre of like-minded Argonauts.

Of the four, the Eroica was my least favorite. More refined than the other three, the Eroica had milk chocolate notes with a surprisingly short finish. As the note above alludes, this Whisky seems a bit shy and needs lots of coaxing to bring out the beauty of the spirit.

 

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Bruichladdich 21 La Berenice

Cuvee 382: La Berenice (Sauternes/Barsac Cask)

This American-oak-aged Bruichladdich has been further matured in casks that previously contained the lush sweet white wines of two of the greatest chateaux of Barsac and Sauternes. Casks that have held wine from grapes grown to honeyed intensity from some of the most blessed plots of Bordeaux now meet classic Bruichladdich spirit that has slumbered in our dank, dark loch-side warehouses for two decades. Elegant vanilla from the white oak, the honeyed fruit of the wine, the toasted malt of the the barley, the floral elegance of the spirit produced by our long-necked Victorian stills and the fresh tang of salt laden Atlantic winds here produce a sensuous, decadent and flirtatious whisky, with more than a hint of forbidden fruit.

The La Berenice was my second favorite of the flight. It was richer in character than the straight 21, with a honeyed quality and loads of creamy notes.

 

The second flight was a set of Scotch Malt Whisky Society bottles of varying age. The lineup was as follows:

 

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44.65 (24-year-old Craigellachie)

Third favorite in the flight. Smoky and sweet with layers of spice. A strong peaty character with more smoke on the finish. Aged in refilled Ex-Bourbon hogsheads, this Speyside malt seemed a bit shy and needed lots of coaxing to show its best. Despite being bottled at 52.4%, the spirit was surprisingly tame.

 

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95.2 (18-year-old Auchroisk)

Second favorite in the flight. Sweet and creamy on the nose with a little heat on the palate. Woody with a persistent sweetness. Aged in second fill Ex-Bourbon hogsheads, this Speyside malt also needed a bit of coaxing to show its best. Being bottled at 53.2% explains the heat on the palate.

 

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37.75 (18-year-old Cragganmore)

My favorite of the flight. Soft and perfumed on the nose with vanilla hints. Smooth and sweet with a creamy, almost buttery finish. Absolutely beautiful. Aged in second fill Ex-Sauternes hogsheads, this Speyside malt is pure heaven. Despite being bottled at 55.1%, there is no trace of heat on the palate, just lush, creamy goodness.

 

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28.3 (25-year-old Tullibardine)

My least favorite of the flight. Grassy and floral on the nose with a trace of honey, smoke and wood. Sweet on the palate with vanilla and butterscotch. The odd juxtaposition of the toffee-like sweetness against the green, grassy nose detracted. Aged in second fill Ex-Sauternes hogsheads, this Highland malt is tough to love. Being bottled at 53.3% surprisingly did not hurt the palate.

 

The third flight was a mix that the barkeep, Justin helped create (Betsy wanted to put this flight together and she did an admirable job!). The lineup was as follows:

 

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Amrut Raw Cask (Blackadder)

Blackadder is a Scottish bottler, which specializes in unusual distilleries and/or orphaned casks. The Amrut is an interesting experience. Sweet and herbaceous in the nose with hints of anise and cumin. Rich on the palate, candied with echoing spiciness of cumin and curry. Strong iodine/briny finish. Aged in second fill Ex-Bourbon hogsheads, this single malt Whisky is made in Bangalore India. No age statement could be found, but the Raw Cask designation means that the spirit is bottled, unfiltered at cask strength. In this case, cask strength is 61.4% and it shows powerful heat on the palate. Despite the heat, the Whisky is remarkably complex and easy to drink with a few drops of spring water.

 

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Auchentoshan 24-year-old (Blackadder)

My favorite of the flight. Woody with a strong vanilla and toffee nose. Intense on the palate, hot with incredible richness. Complex with a creamy note and loads of spice and pepper. Unusual burnt rubber on the finish, but it did not detract. Aged in second fill Ex-Bourbon hogsheads, this Lowland malt is superb, perhaps one of the best bottles of Whisky I have ever had. As with the Amrut, the Auchentoshan is a Raw Cask, bottled at 55%.

 

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35.142 (21-year-old Glen Moray)

My second favorite of the flight. Sweet with strong vanilla notes. Smooth on the palate with a light spiciness and continued vanilla and butterscotch. Long finish with layers of complexity. Aged in first fill toasted hogsheads, this Speyside malt is perhaps one of the most underrated distillers in Scotland. Consistent and pleasant are the hallmarks of this producer.

 

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9.9 (26-year-old Glen Grant)

My least favorite of the flight. Soft with a spicy and floral nose. Sweet and candied on the palate with continued spiciness and a briny, seaside finish. Aged in first fill Ex-Bourbon hogsheads, this Speyside malt is interesting, but undistinguished. Being bottled at 55.1%, it was surprising how little heat was present on the palate.

 

A shout out to our two barkeeps: Justin and Vanessa. We were cosseted and pampered during our stay at the bar, which made for an incredibly pleasant experience!

 

Aram’s Coffee Café Belmont, MA

15 Saturday Apr 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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AramsLogo

I used to head into Belmont religiously to have my older cars serviced. As my cars became newer models, and after we left Somerville, it became less convenient to make the trek. I still head back, at least twice a year, though, to have the tires changed (summer -> winter and back again) and when I do, I make my pilgrimage back to Aram’s Café (https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHZL_enUS687US687&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=aram’s+cafe+Belmont)…

It’s no secret. If you have been reading my blog then you know my feelings about breakfast (and many other things, as well). So, an opportunity to savor authentic home-cooked, ethnically-oriented breakfast food will not be missed.

Aram’s is exactly that opportunity. I usually visit early… like, “I’m the second guy in the door early…” Never crowded at that time, but I imagine it could get quite busy. The space is small – a counter that seats about ten and another four four-person booths – that’s it. Cooking is done right before your eyes, with only a few prep activities taking place in a back-kitchen area. Family run – I’ve only met the patriarch himself – a sixty-eight-year-old first generation Armenian who reminds me of my late father. You know, older, distinguished, a little out of shape, but in the day, you can tell he was ripped. Engaging and opinionated – don’t ask a question if you don’t want to get a lecture… and don’t be surprised if you don’t agree… thing is, Aram really doesn’t care whether you agree… For me, I love the guy… but I’m a bit of a grumpy old fart myself.

The food is great. All home-cooked, all fresh. I always get one of the Armenian omelets – either tomato and soujouk (sausage) or the tomato and basterma (pastrami). Both are wonderful, with exotic flavors that don’t overpower. Served with home fries and toast, they make a filling breakfast that easily carries me through the day. I’ve also had the eggs benedict and can say that Aram makes a mean Hollandaise sauce.

AramsSoujouk

Prices are right, especially for what you get, inclusive of the conversation.

On my last visit, Aram offered that he is thinking of retiring in a few years, turning the daily operation over to his kids… visiting when he wants to help out now and then… I said that sounds like a good plan. We looked at each other and laughed… we both knew that would never happen…

 

The Looking Glass Cafe, Wrentham, MA

13 Thursday Apr 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. A nutritious and delicious breakfast is the key to happiness. This is probably why I love diners so much… There is nothing like the stick-to-your-ribs cuisine found in the American diner. I mean nothing. Some diners are traditional, Worcester Dining Car types, others are mere holes in the wall. Then there are the more visible, retro-styled establishments reminiscent of the 1950’s car hops. Some are just café store fronts. Regardless of the form, you can usually count on great food, served fast and at a great price.

The Looking Glass Café (https://www.facebook.com/TheLookingGlassCafe/) is one of those store-front type diners located in the heart of Wrentham Center.

The décor is clean and simple with counter service, two booths and another five or six tables. Not a lot of space, but enough.

The food is standard diner fare, with breakfast served from until closing and lunch from around noon to closing, which is 3:00 pm daily.

LookingGlassTasteOIrish

My favorites are the Taste of Ireland and the Looking Glass Eggs Benedict – both are served with homemade corned beef hash. In the case of the Taste of Ireland, you enjoy two eggs any style, two slices of raisin toast, home fries and the previously mentioned hash. With the Benedict, substitute Canadian bacon for hash and you’re rolling. The Hollandaise is silky and creamy and home fries are extra.

Breakfast specials are always a treat, like their Chili and Cheese Omelet!

LookingGlassChiliOmelette

There are a host of other goodies and the lunch specials are always a treat.

Weekends can get busy, but the efficient wait staff keep things moving so wait times are always reasonable.

So, if you find yourself on Route 1A in Wrentham Center, make sure you stop in at the Looking Glass Café…

The Oregon Club – Ashland, MA

23 Thursday Mar 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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OregonLogo

If I had never been told by a friend about the Oregon Club (http://theoregonclub.com/Home_Page.html), I might never have had the pleasure of dining there.

Nestled on a country road in Ashland, the Oregon Club is a quaint destination that should not be overlooked. According to their website:

The Oregon Club was born as “The Briasco Inn” in 1922, founded by Giuseppe Briasco. At first glance, the Briasco Inn was a popular local rooming house that served just spaghetti and steaks to the neighborhood, but the Inn also functioned as a speakeasy. When prohibition ended in 1933, the Briascos renamed their restaurant The Oregon Club and made it members-only to continue offering their guests the privacy they enjoyed. Giuseppe turned over the business to his son John and wife Rena in the 50’s.  Word continued to spread about the odd little farmhouse with such great food, and eventually the once private club was opened to the public.  John and Rena retired in 1994 and handed over their much-loved restaurant to a new generation. Chef Chris Scanlon and Judy MacLeod, owners of the Oregon Club since 2009, met at the Oregon Club many years ago.  Both were enamored by the history and the potential in this funky little spot. When the opportunity came to take over, they jumped at the chance and have not looked back since.

We have visited twice now and each visit has been spectacular. Paying homage to the Club’s speakeasy past, we of course started with a brace of classic cocktails, each well-prepared.

OregonNegroni

The Negroni was perfectly balanced and refreshing, as was the Martini.

OregonCaesar

The appetizer list is plentiful, but we stuck with a pair of Caesar Salads. Both were crisp and fresh with a tangy dressing and for those who like “hairy fish,” the anchovies were plentiful.

OregonFlankOregonSirloin

Because the restaurant is known for steaks, we stuck with the special – Grilled Marinated Flank Steak, served with mashed potatoes and sautéed green beans, and the 12-oz. New York Sirloin. The steaks were cooked perfectly to order and were tender and flavorful. On prior visits, we did have the Oregon “Club Steak,” which is an 8-oz. sirloin, smothered with wonderful sherry-caramelized onions. We can also vouch for the Pan-seared Duck Breast when it is available, as well as the Mushroom Pasta, which is Campanelle pasta tossed with wild mushrooms, crispy pancetta, Cippolini onion and sun-dried tomatoes all finished with white wine, olive oil, herbs and Romano cheese.

OregonBruleeOregonMousseOregonGrappaEspresso

Desserts are all house made and are excellent – we had the Mousse and the Crème Brûlée, as well as a nice snifter of Eau de Vie, in this case, Grappa.

OregonCDP

In fairness to some of the other restaurants I have reviewed, I need to take the Oregon Club to task for their wine list… The list is brief, but does contain some very nice selections that are both appropriate for the cuisine and reasonably priced. As I have noted in the past, I am a stickler for accuracy on a wine list, especially for a modest list that is managed as an insert on a clipboard-style drinks list. For starters, not all the wines are up-to-date. Case in point, we ordered a favorite, the 2012 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret which we had on a prior visit and was still listed. The server brought a CDP, but it was the 2014 Domaine de Châteaumar. When I asked why the change, the server appeared confused, until I showed that what was listed was in fact not what was brought. A return to the kitchen with questions, elicited the answer – the listed wine is no longer available, the one brought to table is the CDP on offer. We were told we could taste it and if we found it unsatisfactory we could return it, no charge. We plowed forward and the wine was fine. While this episode did not diminish our enjoyment and all worked out in the end, I do raise it as an issue given my focus on beverage service and especially given that the list is easily managed.

Table service was excellent. Our server was cheerful, helpful, professional and attentive. She was a joy and took very good care of us. Overall, our experiences have been exceptional and we give the Oregon Club our highest recommendation!

 

The Breakfast Nook – Bellingham MA

12 Sunday Mar 2017

Posted by musingsonthevine in Restaurants

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BreakfastNookLogo

No, I have not supplanted my wine & spirits focus for food… But I thought it would be a nice diversion for my local readers to find a few restaurant reviews amongst the wine and cocktails… When we first arrived in Wrentham we tried this breakfast joint. It was called something different then (17 years ago) and frankly, it wasn’t very good. Recently, we were in the area and decidedly hungry so we figured we would give the rebooted version another try. The Breakfast Nook https://www.facebook.com/The-Breakfast-Nook-108131589229062/ turned out to be quite good.

BreakfastNookSOS

BreakfastNookEggs

I was pleasantly surprised to find SOS on the menu, either over toast or biscuits, so I had to try it. The creamed chip beef was excellent, not too salty and with just the correct amount of spiciness. I should have opted for the toast, as the biscuits were a little too moist and were more like dough sinkers. Overall, I was quite happy. Because the picture of the SOS on the menu looked skimpy, I also asked for a pair of fried eggs and home fries – both excellent, but both unnecessary.

BreakfastNookFrenchToast

BreakfastNookMapleSausage

The French Toast was good, although they would have benefited from more vanilla in the batter and little more cinnamon on the side. The Maple-cured Sausage was excellent with a deep, rich flavor.

Coffee, like cocktails, becomes a benchmark upon which I measure “diners” and The Breakfast Nook coffee was superb. Rich, full-flavored with nutty hints and no bitterness.

Although off the beaten path for us, we will be making return visits when my hankering for SOS arises, which is probably going to be too often, in spite of my need to curb my waistline!

 

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