The Bronx Cocktail

Still on my orange juice kick, this seems like the perfect cocktail to try…

Pre-prohibition cocktails all have numerous attributions regarding their origins. The Bronx Cocktail, a very well-known pre-prohibition libation is no different. There were no fewer than six possible origins for the cocktail noted in various sources.

The citation that I feel carries the most credibility is one that appears in William “Cocktail” Boothby’s 1908 tome, The World’s Drinks and How to Mix them. Listed as “Bronx Cocktail, Boothby attributes Billy Malloy, Pittsburgh, PA with the original recipe: “one-third Plymouth gin, one-third French vermouth and one-third Italian vermouth, flavored with two dashes of Orange bitters, about a barspoon of orange juice and a squeeze of orange peel. Serve very cold.”

In looking in more contemporary references, one finds this adaptation, which I like the best:

1 oz. of Orange Juice

1/2 oz. of Sweet vermouth

1/2 oz. of Dry vermouth

2 oz. of Gin (London Dry)

Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass with cracked ice. Stir and strain into chilled cocktail glass.

Bronx_(cocktail)

Cheers!

The Bonnie Prince Charlie

The Bonnie Prince Charlie

Believe it or not, I do not keep orange juice around very often. I’m not entirely sure why, but I just don’t. As a result, when we end up with some in the fridge, I usually like to experiment – cocktail-wise. The last time this happened, I played with a few oldies but goodies – the Monkey Gland, Satan’s Whiskers and the Blood and Sand. All quite nice potations that have a Summery splash to them.

I felt like going off book tonight, so I thought about what might be fun. As I looked across the mess that is my bar, I saw it… Drambuie. The history of Drambuie purportedly goes back 267 years. According to the Drambuie website, the origins are thus:

The story of Drambuie begins over 267 years ago in July 1746. Prince Charles Edward Stuart (known also as Bonnie Prince Charlie) was on the run, after defeat at the Battle of Culloden had ended his hopes of restoring the Stuarts to the throne of Great Britain.

The Prince was pursued by the King’s men across the Highlands and Islands of Western Scotland, bravely aided by many Highland Clans. Among them was Clan MacKinnon whose chief, John MacKinnon, helped the Prince escape from The Isle of Skye. In thanks for his bravery the Prince gave John MacKinnon the secret recipe to his personal liqueur, a gift that the Clan were to treasure down the generations. An extraordinary elixir that would, many years later, become known to the world as Drambuie.

Brings a tear to one’s eye… At any rate, I thought about what might work and I decided to riff on the Blood and Sand. Instead of Cherry Heering, I substituted Drambuie. Toss in a dash of something earthy, like Angostura bitters and voila, we have The Bonnie Prince Charlie:

1 oz Scotch Whisky (I used Johnny Walker Red)

1 oz Fresh orange juice

.75 oz Drambuie

2 dashes Angostura bitters

Garnish: Luxardo Maraschino cherry

Add all the ingredients to a shaker and fill with ice. Shake, and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish.

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Cheers!

Grappa

Grappa… Sometimes just the mention of this spirit brings about the strangest reactions… Most involve exclamations about “jet fuel” and “blindness.” My experience has been that people either love or hate grappa, there is little in between. However, like so many things, people’s real knowledge of grappa, or lack thereof leads to missed opportunities.

Growing up in an Italian household with parents who were children of the Great Depression, we wasted nothing. Now, we weren’t slaughtering our own livestock or anything like that, but my Grandfather did what every self-respecting Italian of his generation did… he made “second wine,” and grappa.

Grappa is a truly Italian product, although every country that produces wine has their version of it (Turkish Raki, for instance). Quite simply, Grappa is brandy, specifically, pomace brandy. Pomace is the collection of material left over once a wine maker presses the contents of their primary fermenting vat. The material at the bottom of the press bears a striking resemblance to a cheesecake and is loaded with all kinds of stuff. Remember this comment as we delve into the method of production for grappa…

With the formation of the European Union, many products have gained protected status – grappa being one of them. As a protected product, there are very strict criteria that define exactly what can and cannot be called “grappa.”

  • First criteria – Grappa must be produced in Italy, or the Swiss Italy, or San Marino.
  • Second criteria – Grappa can only be produced from pomace (unlike traditional brandy, which is distilled from pure wine).
  • Third criteria – Grappa can only be produced from distillation that occurs on the pomace without the addition of water.

The third criteria is what dictates the production method for grappa, which is essentially a steam-distillation process. Traditional distillation involves the direct heating of the fermented agent to vaporize, condense and concentrate alcohol. If this method were applied to pomace, the result would be a cooked, burned mass of post-fermentation materials, with no usable by-product. With steam distillation, steam passes through the fermented material, carrying with it the essential elements that are then condensed as a highly-rarified spirit. The drawback to steam distillation is that larger amounts of methanol are extracted, which is extremely poisonous. This is one reason why homemade grappa earned a reputation for blinding and even killing imbibers. This is also the reason why the Italian government has sought strict laws around who can and cannot make grappa for resale.

Most grappa are clear, signifying that they are not aged in oak, like traditional brandy. The primary reason for this is that the spirit is known for having very subtle aromas and flavors that would otherwise be masked by the presence of wood.

More recently, some producers are experimenting with wood aging, which does produce a grappa with a pronounced hue and a different flavor profile more like brandy.

The production of grappa has definitely benefited by improvements in technology. Early examples of grappa clearly earned their designation as “jet fuel,” with the spirit having a rough, alcoholic presence. As the application of a more refined distillation process was used, the end product became much smoother and more alluring. The introduction of pressurization during the distillation process has allowed for a lower temperature extraction that preserves much more of the delicacy of the essential elements.

Like many things in the wine and spirit world there are many more grappa available today than were in the market only a few years ago. I have been actively seeking out grappa and can happily report on some of my favorites:

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Moletto Grappa di Barbera

Mazzetti Altavilla Grappa di Barbera

Jacopo di Poli – Po di Poli – (Grappa from Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc)

jacopo-grappa-poli

Jacopo di Poli – Sarpa di Poli – (Grappa from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)

Jacopo di Poli – Grappa da Vinacce di Sassicaia

Marolo – Grappa di Moscato

Marolo – Grappa di Brunello di Montalcino

Marolo Barolo

Marolo – Grappa di Barolo

G. Bertagnolli – Grappa di Amarone

bertagnolli-grappa-di-teroldego

G. Bertagnolli – Grappa di Teroldego

NoninoMerlot

Nonino – Il Merlot di Grappa

Nonino – Il Moscato di Grappa

Nonino – Il Chardonnay di Grappa

I heartily recommend picking up one of the above grappa and sampling a small glass after a nice meal as the perfect digestif in the true Italian tradition. If you are an aficionado of fine spirits, you will not be disappointed.

Cheers!

The Cunningham Cocktail

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I love Jazz. The infinite improvisations on time tested melodies that provide inroads into the inner reaches of a musician’s soul. I can endlessly listen to fifty artists put their signature on a classic piece and never grow tired. So too is the art of the cocktail. While I wax poetic about the importance of the exactitude of the classic cocktail, I also revel in the endless riffs that are played on these important tomes.

My curiosity is always peeked by the mixing of strange bedfellows. Scotch Whisky-based cocktails are always challenging and I have done my best over the years to showcase the best of the lot. A while back, one of these classic gems was The Blood and Sand, a Scotch Whisky-based cocktail from the 1920’s that featured orange juice and Cherry Heering in a pleasing salute to Rudolph Valentino.

Imagine my pleasure when I stumbled upon a modern classic by Marco Dionysos, which is clearly a riff on the Blood & Sand – The Cunningham. Offering the perfect example of how mixologists refine a classic, the Cunningham takes the Blood & Sand and moves it to a more ephemeral plane. The addition of blood orange juice and Bénédictine brings an earthy, edgy feel to the cocktail. Truly refreshing, the Cunningham may become my new favorite transitional cocktail…

Ladies and Gentlemen, The Cunningham:

1.5 oz The Famous Grouse Scotch Whisky

.5 oz Fresh lemon juice

.5 oz Fresh blood orange juice

.25 oz Bénédictine

.25 oz Cherry Heering

Garnish: Brandied cherries and a flamed blood orange twist

Add all the ingredients to a shaker and fill with ice. Shake, and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with brandied cherries and a flamed blood orange twist.

Cheers!

2010 Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico, Italy

Having grown up on Chianti poured from the infamous fiasco, or straw flask, I am always elated when I find a bottle of Chianti that merges all the best from the past with all that is good with today’s viticultural techniques.

Since 2000, Chianti Classico has been undergoing a formal “upgrade.” Changes in wine laws were enacted then, all intended to improve the quality, and sales of Chianti Classico wines. Many older properties resisted the changes, but many did embrace the new order and as a result, started producing wines of distinct quality. One such property is Poggio Bonelli – a 16th century wine estate that commands about 160+ acres of very high-quality vineyard in the heart of Chianti Classico.

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The estate has been passed down since the Middle Ages, finally ending up in the hands of a large global real estate company, Monte dei  Paschi di Siena. Well-financed with access to talented wine makers and the best technology, the wines of Poggio Bonelli are exceptional. Most notable is the combination of traditional Chianti characteristics with more modern hints – there is an earthy quality with layers of dried cherry and old leather, combined with jammy fruit and exotic spices. The result is just lovely.

At an average per bottle price of $24, finding this gem at Martignetti’s in Brighton MA at $15.99 (before the discount) was, in a word, awesome…

My tasting note:

Jammy nose with blackberry, black cherry, earthy hints. Full-bodied with moderate acidity and firm, dry tannin – well balanced. Dark fruit core with intense cherry, crushed lavender and cedar notes. Long finish – smooth with spice, dried fruit and vanilla on the aftertaste. Drinking well now with 5 to 7 years of aging potential. A super value.

Cheers!

2010 Château Pied d’Argent, Côtes de Bordeaux

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Small, inexpensive Bordeaux producers shine during great vintages. I have said it before and it bears repeating: “the best way to look for value in Bordeaux is to search out small producers, or the second labels of well-known chateaux, in superior vintages.”

I can’t tell you a lot about Château Pied d’Argent, information was scant at best. They are a small producer with vines in the AOC region of the Côtes de Bordeaux. The vineyards of the Côtes are primarily along the three rivers of the region (well, two rivers and one estuary), which means that they are planted primarily to Merlot. As such, the wines tend to be plumier and livelier than their cousins elsewhere in the region. The Château did win a coveted bronze medal in the famous Concours de Bordeaux and was greeted with great press across Europe.

Priced modestly at $14.99 per bottle before any discounts, the wine represents a very good value. Recently, the wine was a put on special offer at a metro-Boston wine shop, with a net price of $9.99 per bottle – no further discounts. At that price, the wine is an amazing value and deserves anyone’s attention.

My tasting note:

Ripe, lively nose with bright cherry, blackberry and lilac hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and moderate tannin – good balance. Dark fruit core with black cherry, tobacco and light cedar notes. Moderate length, simple and smooth, somewhat closed. Drinking well now and the wine should improve with some bottle age. Great value!

Cheers!

2012 Talbott Kali Hart Pinot Noir, Monterey County, California

I remember one day being asked why I liked the music of a particular artist. The inquisitive person, who I think was my father couldn’t understand what was so appealing: “all his songs sound the same.”

My reply: “Well, I guess I don’t mind all his songs sounding the same… I really like the song!” Little did I know that this same phenomena would exist with wine.

A few years ago I blogged about a wine from Talbott: (http://blog.musingsonthevine.com/2012/05/11/2009-talbott-sleepy-hollow-vineyard-pinot-noir-santa-lucia-highland-california/) and as a result of really liking the wine, picked up a case.

12_Kali_Pinot Noir

Fast forward to today and wouldn’t you know, I ran across another bottling from Talbott, their Kali Hart Pinot Noir from Monterey County and like my musical tastes, I just had to try it.

The Kali Hart Pinot Noir is an estate grown wine that is named for the youngest daughter of Robb Talbott, Kalin. In reading the technical details of the wine, we see that the grapes are sourced from the same vineyard, the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, as the wine I reviewed back in 2012. The difference being that the Kali Hart is taken from younger, less mature vines, suggesting the wine is similar in character, but perhaps lacking the refinement and intensity that older vines can often impart.

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True enough, the Kali Hart has all the markers of being from Talbott – good balance – not too fruity with a judicious amount of earthy complexity. But, as I expected, the wine is less intense than the designated Sleepy Hollow wine. I had no problem with this, since the “song sounded the same.”

And, where we spent $24 NET per bottle for the Sleepy Hollow, the Kali Hart comes in at $17.99 BEFORE the discount, so it is conceivable to find the wine at less than $15 NET. I would say that given the similarity between these two wines, the potential $9 savings makes the Kali Hart a really good bargain.

This reinforces the point – our wine cellar is loaded with verticals because when we find a producer we like, we tend to follow them from year to year and from wine to wine. Sure, some may say that this a bit myopic, but in fact, if you follow a producer long enough, like a great musician, you see how the wisdom of age subtly changes their style and interpretation through the years.

Isn’t that what true appreciation is all about?

My tasting note:

Bright, fruity nose with lively red berry aromas and light floral hints. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and supple tannin – well balanced. Fruity palate with raspberry, cherry and blackberry notes. Moderate length – smooth with a bit of earthy complexity on the finish. Drinking well now and should hold for another 2 to 3 years. Very Nice!

Cheers!

Greater Boston Wine Festival – July 27th!

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Musings on the Vine will be at the Greater Boston Wine Festival this coming Sunday, July 27th.

The festival is being held at the Marshfield Fairgrounds in Marshfield, MA.

We will deliver three sessions during each of the Festival hours – 11:00 AM to 2:00 PM and 4:00 PM to 7:00 PM.

The sessions are:

Exploring Massachusetts Grown Wines (11:30 AM or 4:30 PM)

Exploring Apple Wines and Ciders (12:15 PM or 5:15 PM)

Wine & Food in Balance (1:00 PM or 6:00 PM)

 

Check out: http://www.masswinery.com/events/ for more information!

Cheers!

2012 Le Fraghe Brol Grande, Bardolino Classico

Back in June I wrote about a rosé wine from Le Fraghe and noted that, based on the quality and appeal of the wine, I would be “seeking out other wines from Matilde Poggi.” Well, true to my word, I came across a red wine from Le Fraghe that I just had to try.

 

Le-Fraghe-Brol-Grande-Bardolino-Classico

The Brol Grande is a single vineyard Bardolino Classico red from the commune of Affi. The wine is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella grapes from vines with an average age of 15 years. The vineyard is southern exposed at an elevation of approximately 600 feet. Each grape is vinified separately with maceration lasting about 7 to 8 days. The wine is pumped over daily and subject to complete malolactic fermentation. Upon completion, the wine is then placed in large 1,000 gallon wooden vats for 8 months of aging and further settling.

The resulting wine is truly charming and seductive, emphasizing the fruity, spicy nature of both the Corvina and Rondinella grapes. While not built for long aging, the wine does possess elegance and structure with moderate levels of fruit. At an average pre-discount bottle price of $17.99, this wine is an excellent value!

To learn more about Le Fraghe, check my prior post: http://blog.musingsonthevine.com/2014/06/03/2013-le-fraghe-rodon-bardolino-chiaretto/

My tasting note:

Bright, lively nose with fresh cherry, allspice and floral hints. Medium-bodied with firm acidity and supple tannin – well balanced. Slightly tart, red berry palate with juicy cherry and strawberry notes – seductive. Moderate length – smooth with a crisp finish – some nice layered complexity on the finish – mineral, black pepper and nutmeg. Drinking well now – should hold well for another 2 to 3 years. Good value.

Cheers!

Bittermilk

People who know me, understand me to be a purist. Nothing halfway about my pursuits. This posture brings about both joy, as well as disappointment. In the end you often realize that it’s the journey and not the destination that is important. Which is why I am constantly searching…

In a recent copy of Imbibe magazine I learned about a new line of pre-made cocktail mixers from an outfit called Bittermilk in Charleston, South Carolina. Like the author of the piece, I eschew most pre-made cocktail mixers, primarily because they are really bad and don’t make anything even close to the cocktail suggested on the bottle. I would rather pass on a cocktail, or struggle to find the right ingredients before using the usual dreck that constitutes pre-made cocktail mixers.

Imagine my joy when I read about Bittermilk and promptly ordered their three cocktail mixer compounds. According to the web site: “Bittermilk compounds are designed for the modern day cocktail enthusiast, to help mix up unique, quality cocktails following a simple ratio of Bittermilk to your choice of spirit. Each of our products use a bittering agent, a sweetener, and an acid to achieve a balanced cocktail. The labor is in the bottle.”

The three compounds currently available are:

BitterMilkN1

No. 1 – Bourbon Barrel Aged Old Fashioned

BitterMilkN2

No. 2 Tom Collins with Elderflower and Hops

BitterMilkN3

No. 3 Smoked Honey Whiskey Sour

After sampling them with my favorite spirits, I can justly say they are amazing. The Whiskey Sour is about the best I have ever had, bright, refreshing with near perfect balance. The Old Fashioned is lush with a lovely, nuanced vanilla character. The Tom Collins is light and floral with a crisp, bright finish. The other nice aspect to these compounds is that you basically pick your spirit, mix with the recommended proportion of compound, shake/stir/strain and you’re done. Nothing could be easier, nor more pleasing. The labor really is in the bottle.

While I did not look for them locally, you can order them from the web site: www.bittermilk.com. They run $15 per compound, plus shipping – not inexpensive, but for the quality and the ease of use, they are certainly worth the price.

So, if you too are a purist at heart and want to find a credible pre-made cocktail mixer, the search is (partially) over – Bittermilk Cocktail Mixer Compounds…

Cheers!

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